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I heard Colin Haley talk about it in an interview. Basically you put in an anchor that can hold upward and downward forces and put yourself on rappel, but climb up, feeding the rope through as you ascend, placing pro as needed. When you run out of rope, pull one end through just like rappelling. Unless you want to abandon your pro, you need to descend the same way to retrieve it. Colin may log on here occasionally and maybe he could chime in or correct me, but I think I got the gist. I think Strassman or Middendorf talk about the clove hitch method in their books. It's simple and bombproof.

Oh yeah, beta photos for the Forbidden Tour. The Forbidden glacier looked good down the gut: The exit was looking a bit thin already, but very doable: