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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/14/22 in all areas

  1. Trip: Mt Hood - Circumnavigation Trip Date: 02/12/2022 Trip Report: Solo'd clockwise from Timberline, started around 1 AM and finished around 1 PM. It was fun to step foot on the Ladd, Coe and Langille glaciers - hadn't done that before. Got a shot of the Reid Headwall by moonlight but the moon was setting when I reached the Sandy, so no shots of that. No crevasses on route and only two parts were a pain. (WRC had crevasses on the west slope.) The upper part of the Coe had a short bit of low angle hard but garbage ice that required tooling across. And of course the White River Canyon is always a pain in one way or another - getting down into it from up high required descending supportable junky ice - no easy dager-ing down. GPX attached. Gear Notes: Helmet, crampons, 2 tools, whippets, feet for walking. Approach Notes: Normal walk up to the top of Palmer.
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  2. Good stove tips! I have definitely had better success with white gas stoves in frigid temperatures, although they can be finicky in other ways. Some friends in Chile told me about using a length of large gauge copper wire to heat the canister, although I haven't done it. Canisters cool naturally as they depressurize (PV=nRT), so if the outside temperature is really cold or they sit in snow, they lose vapor pressure. There are some interesting newer designs that allow you to invert the canister which lets the fuel work as liquid rather than gas and supposedly work in colder temps. Also, hanging your stove so it doesn't sit in the snow conducting away heat seems to work. People are using canisters at pretty high elevations but they have to use a bunch of tricks. Edit: MSR's windburner & reactor designs are definitely more efficient than JetBoil in wind.
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