Leaderboard

and I have see it in late july with 4 wall to wall crevasses that had sketch bridges that failed before our return back from summit. the hydro dynamics of glacier flow through that notch guarantee that there are crevasses that you may or not see. if one was forced at gun point to solo a glacier, the sulphide glacier on shuksan would be a better choice. or eldorado pk. traveling on glaciers in late august thru september is very enlightening to exactly what one has walked over just 2 months previous. recommending a glacier as "chill" without seeing that same glacier bare of winter coverage is reckless advice.

Brandon Seymore and I (Cliff Agocs) climbed this line in May of 2016. We chose it because it looked a little less heady than the Ravine. At the time, the first pitch was WI 3+ or so. The upper bits were moderate mixed. We never even considered if it might be a first ascent. It's hard to imagine any particular spot on Mount Hood still being unclimbed. There are probably some WI exceptions at different parts of the year on the North Buttress and on the Black Spider. However, on a moderate feature like the Eliot Headwall, it's pretty unimaginable that someone hasn't already wandered up into whatever patch of ice you climb. It is a fun route and a proud send, but it's not an FA. It's the Eliot Headwall - one of many variations. I'm happy to attach photos later, but they are on the harddrive of another computer that I don't have access to today. Happy to attach them, if folks want.