Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Trip Date: 12/09/2019 Trip Report:
Went out to Chair peak yesterday in search of mixed conditions and found exactly what we were searching for.
We couldn't have asked for a nicer day, but would have preferred a few more clouds to shade us and the route from the blazing sun.
Overall I would describe the route as "in" mixed climbing condition. Out as a snow or ice climb
P1: We took the right variation. Very fun and good mixed climbing practice. little to no ice but I did place one 10cm screw.
P2: was a simul block across snow covered slabs and ledges over to the base of the ice step. Not many options for belays but it's hard to fall with much force on those slabs.
P3: Sweet neve up to the narrow, thin and unfortunately short ice step. The step consists of a narrow column just barely wide enough to both protect and climb. I placed two rater than one stubby to help protect the belay anchor.
I placed my spectre for fun in some turf after the step and belayed off two pins and a slung pinch point up and right.
P4: cruiser snow simul to the top. Sean slung a tree for pro.
Both rap anchors for the couloir rappel are currently out of reach. In order to reach the bolts I had to stand on my toes and hook the bottom rap ring, with my tool, then do a pull up and clip in direct to my tool in order to thread the rappels. The piton rappel is another 20ft higher. I'm 6'2 and could barely reach, anyone shorter would likely need to tie their tools together or use a probe.
The skis pictures spent the day under a tree somewhere on the approach.
Gear Notes: Gear we brought: Cams .4-1, many nuts, 1 Spectre, 4 kb's, 2 10cm, 1 13cm, and 2 16cm screws, 1 picket, 9 single slings 2 doubles.
Gear we used: all the cams, the KB's, the 10cm, 13cm and one of the 16's, 6 singles 2 doubles. Approach Notes: Currently the summer approach seemed to be the best option. Pray for snow.