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Trip: Little Yoho Valley- Stanley Mitchell Hut - President, Vice President, McArthur, Isolated, etc. Trip Date: 04/09/2019 Trip Report: I'm not the guy to adequately describe a trip like this in words. When it all gels- weather, snow, partners, location- my descriptions fall flat. Suffice it to say that this was a good one. We spent six days in the backcountry, including four full days of skiing and peak bagging around the historic Stanley Mitchell hut. AKA as the "gem" of the Canadian Rockies, a special thanks goes out to the ACC for maintaining such an atmospheric spot to rest, relax, and slay powder. It is so great that you almost forget about the long slog in. Almost. While the core of our group was the usual suspects ( @Kit, @Trent, myself, and Gordo), it is notable that we had someone along that had never met any of us. Austin should be commended on his ability to deal with our aged pace, low risk tolerance, and poor hygiene. He is a fine young man and should not be hanging out with the likes of us. And, after this trip, he probably won't! But for a few days at least we all clicked, and there was only the present. We were able to stand on summits in the sun, looking out on mountains beyond mountains, with nobody else around. It is hard to get any better. The 13km road slog to start: The inside of the historic Stanley Mitchell hut President and VP: Austin and Gordo booting up the Prez: @Kit: Summit of President: Big Country, but not the band: Looking over at the V.P.: Avalanche Roulette on the V.P.: Austin picks correctly: We can all learn a thing or two about skiing from Gordo: And @Kit can teach us to pin it: When we were traversing behind this cornice, some of it fell off in a cloud of powder: Austin on the summit of McArthur: @Trent and @Kit getting ready to head up Isolated: Patagonia Provisions provides! The one and only Stanley Mitchell: @Kit heading to Emerald Pass with Mount Marpole behind: Proper head coverings are essential in the Great White North: Gear Notes: Whiskey, meat, cheese Approach Notes: Long

Trip: Mt Hood - NF right gully (IV, AI3+, 50-55 degrees) Trip Date: 04/20/2019 Trip Report: Noah Kimmes, Ben Luedtke and I climbed the right gully on the north face of Mt Hood last Saturday. No issues to speak of on the approach. Glacier travel was very straight forward. We followed the left flank beneath the cliffs. There are a couple WI3-4 flows still in here if you feel like a warm up. We crossed the bergshrund on the far right. Thin ice/crumbly mixed and a bit of overhung snow but it goes. Partially fell through the snow bridge. A short snow ramp above this leads to the first WI2 pitch which we simuled. Rock and ice fall hazard from the cliff face above to the right at this point. Middle snow slope was in great condition. Solo'd with solid boot steps and good sticks in the icier sections. Exit ice pitch at just below 11,000' went at WI3+. Ice was a bit thin and aerated but solid enough. Lots of features for feet. Good screws on the pitch but anchor was tough. Chopped through snice to thin ice for a stubby, got a decent 13 and a buried tool. Snow was a bit deeper from here to the saddle at Cathedral Spire (amazing position). More of the same booting to the top. Summit cornice was minor to nonexistent. Super fun route! Definitely my new favorite on Hood. Full story forthcoming on erikofthemountain.com Cheers! Approach to Eliot Glacier. Noah leading an ice pitch on the approach. Crossing the bergshrund. Snow right above the WI2 pitch. A look down the middle snow section. Lots and lots of front pointing with epic views. The upper part of the center snow section. The upper ice pitch. The crew! Cathedral spire from near the summit. The summit block. Gear Notes: What we used: 1/10, 4/13cm screws & 1 picket (tool belays most effective) What we brought: 1/10cm, 4/13cm, 2/17cm, 0.4, 0.5, a few nuts & 2 pickets Approach Notes: Left TH at 3:00am. We could skin from the gate but had to boot a couple dirt sections.