danhelmstadter Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Trip: sews - sw rib - rope solo Date: 8/12/2011 Trip Report: I left the TH with a tinge of apprehension, since I hadn't taken my silent partner on a multi pitch or trad outing yet. I took the west face start, and linked the first two pitches - the silver lining of rope solo is that there is no rope drag issues. As I moved higher, I gained confidence in the system, difficult rope feed through the SP proved a nuisance only sometimes, mostly on lower angle terrain. The run out "bear hug" pitch that I had feared was easy, I did another pitch above that then climbed the final pitch unroped (the traverse around the block near the top was spicy). All and all I was able to do it in 5 roped pitches, each pitch I rapped once and climbed twice, a note to self for next time will be to bring more water and leave earlier. flowers at the base of "the bear hug" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcg Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 ...silent partner on a multi pitch...each pitch I rapped once and climbed twice I've been thinking about doing something similar and am curious about your procedure. So when you rap down you disassemble your anchor at the start of the pitch, and then do you just tend a prussik on the doubled rap line while you climb up the same pitch again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhelmstadter Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 The way I did it was to build an anchor at the bottom of the first pitch, lead it, build anchor at the top, rap down on single strand, dissasemble bottom anchor, then climb up single strand on top rope, and repeat. I think there are other methods as you suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pcg Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 (edited) So you are climbing the full length of the rope on each pitch? and using the SP on the top rope as you climb up the second time? I've never used a SP, but that would mean you can feed it either direction? i.e. taking out rope on first climb up and taking in rope on second climb up? Thanks. Edited August 14, 2011 by pcg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 then climb up single strand on top rope Did you use the mini traxions for the single line ascent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Nice job! I've recently gotten into doing longer multipitch roped solos with my SP and it can be quite fun. But yes you always need like twice as much water as you think For PCG, in my system I started out TRing the pitch on a mini traxion to second it, but I found it to be much easier and quicker to carry jumars and light weight aiders and just second every pitch on jumars. When soloing definatly stretch every pitch as long as possible, it sucks to have to do any more pitches than needed. And keep in mind the belays don't always have to be in the most comfortable spot unless your going to hang out and snack or something. Then when rapping and cleaning the pitch with the grigri just leave the rope clipped into the peices that will make it easier to jumar. Its kinda a bummer to have to carry a SP, grigri and jumars, but I think its speeds up the process a ton. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Nice going. Rope soloing isn't for everyone. I don't think it's as fun as climbing with a partner but you do get a better sense of accomplishment. My big rope solos are Town Crier and Davis Holland Lovin Arms. Town Crier I did on the summer solstice and topped out at twilight. D.H.L.A. took 12 hours. I use a Rock Exotica Soloist. I rap/clean with an ATC with a prussik, then jumar. On DHLA I used WC Ropemans with skinny slings to ascend. They worked okay but if you think about it the weight of full sized ascenders is not that big a factor because you aren't climbing with them just pushing them up the rope. I fell on the 5.10c crux, 3rd pitch of Davis Holland, onto a 3/4 DMM Wallnut and it held, (smallest piece on the rack) The system worked perfectly and really gave me confidence after that. I don't think you really gain that much time by running pitches together, after all you are climbing the same distance. You are setting up more belays if not linking but if they're fixed like DHLA it's not really a factor. Also when you get past the half way point of the rope you have to do something about it slipping through the device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhelmstadter Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 yeah, used mini-traxis for the top rope part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 Nice going! I used to do a bit of rope solo climbing, but its been awhile. I would jug the rope and clean the route on my last trip up. It worked pretty well. Fun, but different than climbing with a partner. Climb the route twice rap it once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.