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Posted

Trip: Mount Jefferson - West Rib

 

Date: 6/28/2009

 

Trip Report:

Quick update on a fine route on Jeff. On Saturday evening we hiked 3.5 hours from Pamelia Lake TH (3000')to high camp at 7500' via Milk Creek canyon (still mostly full of snow, but a few waterfall "death traps" must be negotiated). Sweet sunset on the lower West Rib. Climbing by 0600 Sunday morning. Route was mostly snow, with a few scree patches and choss piles that had to be skirted. 2 extended sections of about 45 degree snow that was firm and fun. Gained the west side of the north horn and scrambled up a 4th class face to tjavascript:void(0)he standard "ramp" leading to the summit. Placed 2 pickets and clipped a piton en route to the top. Pinnacle "ramp" was a mix of fairly steep rock, snow, and ice. Rapped off the summit and instead of downclimbing the class 4 face we traversed snow towards the north ridge and then under the west side of the pinnacle. Back to high camp with little difficulties by 1500. 2.5 hour hike back to the car. Crystal clear skies, beautiful mountain, great team of 5 from Corvallis. Have a great summer, all!

P6270380.JPGP6270392.JPGP6270402.JPGP6270423.JPGP6280432.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

50 meter rope, used 2 pickets, horn on summit is wrapped nicely. Second tool might have been nice.

 

Approach Notes:

Milk Creek canyon is melting quickly. It will be very difficult to hike the creek once the waterfalls fully open.

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Posted

The picture above shows one of the objective dangers of hiking up a moraine canyon - Just to the left and above the hiker in photo is a huge rock just waiting - I was unlucky back in 1958 when a friend and I decided to climb Jefferson - As we bushwacked up Milk Creek, he was faster, so was out of sight when it happened - I was walking along the edge, watching my footing, and as the gravel is so loose making small slides - One of the slides muct have taken the last grain of sand holding the rock in place, and it headed down - I was not aware as the creek was making a lot of noise - I got hit from behind, which pushed me head down into the creek, with my frame pack helping to hold me there under water - Somehow I was able to push my head up and get some air, but could not move my feet as the rock was on top of them - It took about 20 minutes of thrashing around to get loose, and I was beat when I got out of the water at last - It had been a close one - Rested awhile and then caught up with my climbing partner who was ticked because I had been so slow - I told him to go climb, but I was done for the day - Like I said I was unlucky it happened, but lucky to survive.

Posted

Hey, nice to see you guys on the top on Sunday, and thanks for taking pictures for us. Didn't know you were from Corvallis. I lived there for 6 years! We had a long descent via White Water Glacier and was able to get back to camp right before dark.

Posted
The picture above shows one of the objective dangers of hiking up a moraine canyon - Just to the left and above the hiker in photo is a huge rock just waiting - I was unlucky back in 1958 when a friend and I decided to climb Jefferson - As we bushwacked up Milk Creek, he was faster, so was out of sight when it happened - I was walking along the edge, watching my footing, and as the gravel is so loose making small slides - One of the slides muct have taken the last grain of sand holding the rock in place, and it headed down - I was not aware as the creek was making a lot of noise - I got hit from behind, which pushed me head down into the creek, with my frame pack helping to hold me there under water - Somehow I was able to push my head up and get some air, but could not move my feet as the rock was on top of them - It took about 20 minutes of thrashing around to get loose, and I was beat when I got out of the water at last - It had been a close one - Rested awhile and then caught up with my climbing partner who was ticked because I had been so slow - I told him to go climb, but I was done for the day - Like I said I was unlucky it happened, but lucky to survive.

so did you keep that pair of drawers or not? :)

Posted

I think I was too scared to even think about my undershorts, and since I am cronologicaly challenged a lot of memories are gone, I do remember what happened to my shorts when I was fighting forest fires in Southern Oregon, and got caught in a crown fire,

it was behind, above, and both sides, and escape was uphill, but then thats another story.

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