first ascent [TR] Washington Pass - Wright/Pond (5.11, 4 pitches)

[cjw250]

Trip: Washington Pass - New Route - Wright/Pond (5.11, 4 pitches)

 

Date: 10/4/2010

 

Trip Report:

 

I'm not sure how much climbing weather we'll have left this year, but we did a new route up on a feature near the pass and if anyone wants to go climb it and let us know what you think, we'd be stoked. It's all set up with bolted belays and a handful of lead bolts, and the route is pretty clean and super fun! It takes about an hour to get to, each of the first three pitches are rope-stretchers and are awesome and I'd say it was worth a day if you're looking for something new.

 

 

Now!Climbing There's a complete write-up and more photos here if anyone's interested.

 

P1 5.11a/b, 55m – Begin by climbing the obvious left-facing arch depicted in the photo below. At its terminus, head directly up gaining a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb this past one bolt to a strenuous pinch at an overlap. Gain the pinch and move left to a stance (crux) below a handsome, right-facing corner to the right of a large roof. Climb left around a flake to gain the corner and climb the corner crack to a bolted belay at a ledge with a small tree. A bold lead.

 

P2 5.10c/d, 50m – Leave the belay to the left and head up a large flake towards a bolt on a small overlap. Clip the bolt and step right into a clean open book. Stemming and thin fingers lead through the open book and past another bolt to gain a stance. Step right and follow the line of six bolts up the face (crux) on small edges and pockets. Step left past the last bolt to a clean, shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to another bolted belay.

 

P3 5.10a, 50m – Head up the obvious right-facing corner (mostly fingers) until it closes out. Work the corner and face past one bolt until a small roof. Pull left past the roof into left-facing corner crack. Climb the crack up and left before another crack trends slightly rightward. Jam fingers and hands to its finish and climb a short, easy slab up and right to a treed ledge and another bolted belay at the base of a left facing corner/chimney.

 

P4 5.8, 45m – Climb the blocky corner/chimney up past a tree until you gain a low-angled slab. Head left across the slab to a wide hand and fist crack hidden in a left-facing corner. Exit the corner up and right on blocky but easy ground to low-angled ledges. A tree with rappel slings is on the left.

 

Descent: Rap the route in four double-rope rappels.

 

Gear Notes:

Double rack to #3;, emphasis on smaller cams and wires. RPs useful.

 

Approach Notes:

Turn off Hwy 20 app. 4.5 miles east of Washington Pass following signs for the Cutthroat Creek Trail. Drive about a mile down the road to a trailhead parking with a bathroom on the left side of the road. Walk up through the woods (no trail) towards the wall, gaining elevation quickly before traversing leftwards in open forest and on slabby benches. You should reach a shoulder near the base of the wall’s right-hand side within an hour to an hour and a half.

Edited October 4, 2010 by cjw250

[kevbone]

Awesome. How come it does not top out?

[ivan]

Awesome. How come it does not top out?

'cuz its all flat on top?

[Dannible]

Nice. Thats the little wall that's visible from the highway coming from Mazama, right? I've always wanted to check that out, but wasn't in a hurry because I thought not too many people cared to shwack up there. Lots of good rock in those parts.

[wayne]

Congrats, looks like you tagged a beauty!

[Mr. Hands]

Gotta check this one out soon! Sounds perfect!

[cjw250]

Thanks for the comments guys. Right on all counts - It doesn't top out because it would just be scrambling from there (we did go to the top once I think), it is that wall you see headed up to the Pass from Mazama, and I believe it's generally called the Cutthroat Creek Wall although as far as I can tell from having asked around and asked Bryan Burdo, this is the first route on it. The schwack to the base really isn't that bad though, and I'd love to hear of someone climbing it. Shoot me an email if you do climb it or want more beta!

[mountainsloth]

looks nice!