[TR] Hood - West Crater Rim 5/26/2007

[Kevin_Matlock]

Trip: Hood - West Crater Rim

 

Date: 5/26/2007

 

Trip Report:

If you have done any route up Hood other than the south slog, you might be asking yourself 'West Crater Rim? So what!'. To those I say read no further.... nothing to see here.... move along... these aren't the droids you're looking for..... But for those who want to step up Hood's challenge in manageable, bite-size chunks I say continue on....

 

Over the years, I've made it an annual tradition to join the masses for the long, boring slog up Hood. Sure I've done more difficult climbs up more difficult mountains, but something about "getting my Hood climb in" has me returning to it each year.

The last couple of climbs up it, however, has really made me want to do a different route, any route that could avoid some of the zoo and gain a new perspective on the mountain. After referring to Oregon High, I came to the conclusion that the next logical progression of routes included Wy'East, Sunshine, and West Crater Rim (WCR).

 

After much soul searching (probably 13 seconds) and for no real good reason other than sheer laziness, I decided upon WCR. Actually, I had been on this side of Crater Rock in years past, but never climbed from that side. Also had planned on climbing the route earlier this year, but due to unconsolidated snow and signs of slide activity, me and the team I was with decided not to proceed. This time around, with my poor climbing partner out of town visiting in-laws, I pushed for a quickie up this route.

 

-Friday 25th-

5:00PM - Decided to go super-light since nothing much should be needed in the way of gear. Grabbed my knock-off Camelback pack and maxed it out with helmet, lightweight alum ax, pons, and little else. Later, luckily remember to fill hydration bladder with H20 since I decide "water might come in handy".

10:30PM - Left the house. Quick run over to AM/PM for gas, coffee, RockStar, Snickers.

11:30PM - On the road. Feeling tired, wished I had more coffee, RockStar, Snickers.

-Saturday 26th-

12:30AM - Arrive at T-Line along with approximately 27,000 other climbers. Looking forward to the possibility of solitude on the lesser traveled route.

12:45AM - Headed out; found that the entire stash of climbing permits was wiped out! Large numbers climbing over the long weekend. Noticed for the first time that the entire south side is now illuminated with street lights all the way to the summit.... then realize it was just the line of climbers.

Nice night for a walk with light winds, mild temps, and a half-moon to light the way.

1:00AM - Almost run over by a Snow Cat. After it passes by me, and failing to even slow down in the slightest, I watch as it disappears into the darkness only to hear a "SHIT!" coming from that direction. After realizing that neither rocks nor snow do much cursing, I come to the conclusion that the cat almost ran over another climber.

1:15AM to 2:30AM - The other victim of the errant cat catches up to me. Some guy named Rob on a nice A/T setup. I determine that I should have brought my skis instead up trudging up like a sucker. (Not sure if he's a CC'er or not. If so, "hey Rob" ). We pass the time talking skis and climbing; next thing I know we are close to topping out on the Palmer.

3:00AM - Bid Rob farewell since I need to start aiming more west-ward. Noticed that the moon has set and everybody is on headlamps at this point. The MP3 player comes out and I assume the head-down-marching-and-rocking-position.

5:00AM - Getting light now and I can see debris whizzing off Crater Rock. I've traversed slightly high on Crater Rock's shoulder so I'm in the line of fire of the odd hunk of junk that it's showering. Decide it's a good time to take the headphones off and listen for incoming missiles. And just for good measure the helmet goes on.

 

Also at this time I can start picking out options in the route. From the beta, I recall three possibilities:

(1) following the gulley up to the hot rocks. I figure why bother since I may as well just climb it from the south.

(2) climbing diagonally up the ridge line toward the summit. I've seen tracks up between these rocks before in previous years. None this year and I think getting above them doesn't offer much in the way of self-arrest options.

(3) taking the ridge headwall directly to top out first and follow it to the summit. Easily the steepest and I think the least likely for me to do solo.

 

6:00AM - Start heading up the bowl on the west rim... keep thinking I'm going to cut over to option #2 any second.... just keep going... a little further.... keep going.... SHIT, now it's below me! I have been following a previous climber's ladder of steps. These seem to be the most secure option on this entire face. It's steeper than I would normally prefer to do solo, but not to an extreme extent. I'll call it 60 degrees of snice and just enough to get a "south side climber's" blood pumping. This is probably no more than 200' high so it goes fairly quickly. Fun stuff though. After topping out you come to the ramp leading to the Old Chute. This ramp offered me the chance to sit and veg, and observe those poor south side suckers getting ready for the only fun on that climb.

 

7:00AM - Took the leisurely stroll on the ramp leading up to the Old Chute. Cool images of the summit coming and going in the clouds. I can also see faint images of the ants over on, and climbing up the Hogs Back.

 

7:30AM to 8:00AM - Regained the sea of humanity as I work my way up the Old Chute. Think to myself that if the Hog wasn't line up so far west as it is this year that I would have been by myself for much of this portion as well. But, due to the ice in the P-Gates, it's pushed quite a few more over to this route.

8:00 AM - Summit with "a few" of my south side cohorts (and probably a few from other routes, too). Thin clouds and times of wind form some cool blankets below me.

 

8:30 AM - BS with a self-described "Mazama in training" as we both wait for the inevitable hold ups on the way down from the summit. But he seems to be a nice guy so the time passes quickly. I'm impressed by his lack of "complete terror" that I envision all new, unroped climbers decending the Old Chute should have. I also debate on telling him that all climbs aren't quite this crowded.

9:00 to 11:00 AM - Trudge down as quick as I can; pissing and moaning to myself the entire way for not bringing my skis. Stop briefly for another shot (in better light) of the route that I followed.

 

11:00AM - Arrive back at my car and realize that I didn't bring a cooler with ice cold beer. Come to the conclusion that this is my regular climbing partner's responsibility to remind me to bring this. Desperate, I crack open an "emergency beer" that I have stashed in the car.... luke-warm beer never tasted better.

11:10AM - Decide to never climb Hood again (until next year).

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

If I had a second tool with me I would have used it for gaining the ridge. The conditions weren't very firm so it felt vague in spots. If you have a group, and folks not used to higher angle slopes I would image a rope and a couple pickets would be highly desirable.

Be sure and bring the cold beer!

 

Approach Notes:

Same old drill. Might want to traverse Crater Rock lower and head more up the gulley. I traversed around 9300' and was exposed to some bombs, but the early time of the day had most of the crap holding firm.

 

[Ptown_Climber1]

Great looking trip! That's the type of report that I really enjoy reading....very informative as well. I was always curious about what path to take up West Crater, so your highlighted lines were helpful. I can just imagine the zoo it must of been like up there! Spot any blue jeans?

[Kevin_Matlock]

thanks.

no blue jeans; instead i simply went with shorts over polypro.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Nice pics. The clouds really add a neat effect :tup:

[billbob]

Too funny! Good TR and great pic with that cloud layer below (was that from snow kicked up by all those boots?). Now you just have got to get on those other routes you mentioned !

[Frikadeller]

FANTASTIC!!!

 

OUTSTANDING!

 

It's reports like this that keep my spirits up! Too many home improvement projects prevent any climbing this year...

 

But you're keeping my stoke up for next year.

 

But, You're right, I would have brought the split board on that trip. (or skis in your case)

 

There is nothing like spending 8-9 hours climbing, only to decend in 20-30 min.!

[Kevin_Matlock]

Bill - we did the right thing by not trying this line earlier this year! Gaining the rim would suck big time in all but the best of conditions (and even then it felt surgary in spots). Yup, will have to pick off another one next year I'm thinking.

 

Frik - thanks for the kind words. And, as you said, you can definitely descend in a half hour! Saw a group of 4 on skis litterally start 10' from the summit lip off the old chute. While I thought it was a little irresponsible since a fall would have taken out several others, I was jealous of how fast they descended (via the west rim gulley).

Actually, I sat there and waited for the last of them (some kid who was having problems locking into his bindings much less skiing down) to start off since I didn't want them behind me kicking the crud down on me. Definitely more tallented skiers than me though.

[RogerJ]

I just read the OR legislation is abandoning the MLU requirement debate in light of a new bill that will require skis or snowboard for all descents on Mt Hood.

 

-r

[Rat_In_Training]

I just read the OR legislation is abandoning the MLU requirement debate in light of a new bill that will require skis or snowboard for all descents on Mt Hood.

 

-r

 

Nice. Wishfull thinking, but your full of it!!

[Frikadeller]

I just read the OR legislation is abandoning the MLU requirement debate in light of a new bill that will require skis or snowboard for all descents on Mt Hood.

 

-r

 

Nice. Wishfull thinking, but your full of it!!

 

Of courrse he is, but I for one, think it's a good idea!!

 

 

(Note this is fucking SARCASM, If I see the this on Oregonlive I am gonna shit like the last time you took my post out of context!!)

[Robert Howell]

Kevin,

 

I believe those were our tracks that you were following, as we were the first ones up the West Crater that morning.

[Jimmy James]

Kevin-- just wanted to say thanks for the great TR on the West Crater Rim route. Your descriptions and pictures tempted me to climb the route on 5/30. It was my first "new" route on Mt. Hood besides the S side. Conditions were great, and I got to be alone on the summit for like a half an hour while I waited for the sunrise.

[Kevin_Matlock]

Sure thing! Good job on your "new" route, too.

 

[billbob]

The usual Hood circus was almost entirely focused on going up the WCR route last weekend, crossing over the HB for good measure. Maybe its a good time to do the "technical" Pearly Gates route ?

BTW, whilst sliding down on the sucky snow and dodging large ice chunks on Saturday, I thought I glimpsed the collapse of the snow bridge over the HB bergschrund.

[hippos_are_evil]

The area around the bergshrund is pretty thin. I was descending and went what I thought was far south of the crack along a boot path and my left leg fell into the bergshrund and dangled in air. So I'd give it a wide berth.