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#681844 - 05/14/07 08:01 PM [TR] Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir 5/12/2007
off_the_hook Offline

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 11154
Loc: San Carlos, CA
Trip: Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir

Date: 5/12/2007

Trip Report:
Last weekend I climbed Matterhorn Peak via the East Couloir. Matterhorn is the climax of the rugged Sawtooth Ridge and is located in Hoover Wilderness on the Northeast border of Yosemite National Park.

We drove to the start of the climb from the Bay Area Saturday morning via Sonora Pass. We started at 10:20 am up the Horse Creek Trail and then up the snow covered slopes to our camp at ~10,500 feet on the moraine of the small glacier below Matterhorn Peak.

We dropped the camping gear and after a break, we continued on to the summit via the East Couloir (left).

The couloir was in great shape for cramponing and was a fun ascent with some steeper snow slopes.

We completed the final third class portion and reached the summit at 4 pm. The views of the Sierra mountains were spectacular and a few marine clouds swarming around made for some dramatic photos.

Sweet looking horn from within the East Couloir.

We descended from the summit back to camp and enjoyed a spectacular sunset.

The night was quite windy and cold, but it was well worth the sunrise we were treated to in the morning.

Once the sun came up at 6:30 am, the temperature skyrocketed and the winds diminished.

We enjoyed the morning and took off at 8:40 am and cruised down the snow slopes and valley trail to the trailhead, reaching it at 10:30 am.

Matterhorn is a relatively easy objective for a day climb, but the sunset and sunrise made this outing special. A great partner and crisp early season weather made my first climb in the high Sierra a memorable outing.

Gear Notes:
ice axe, crampons

Approach Notes:
Trail in good shape, snow starts at the head of the Horse Creek Valley.

Edited by off_the_hook (05/14/07 08:18 PM)

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#681848 - 05/14/07 08:31 PM Re: [TR] Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir 5/12/2007 [Re: off_the_hook]
rhyang Offline

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 328
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: formerly pdx, now sjc
Nice pics and good work

#682002 - 05/15/07 08:12 AM Re: [TR] Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir 5/12/2007 [Re: rhyang]
Serenity Offline
addicted to

Registered: 03/12/07
Posts: 580
TRs: 0 Photos: 11
Loc: Wherever sucks the most
Cool report, thanks for posting it. I've always been interested in that peak since reading "Dharma Bums".
When we raise our glass to toast absent friends, the pause to remember gets longer and longer.

#682190 - 05/15/07 11:37 AM Re: [TR] Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir 5/12/2007 [Re: Serenity]
tvashtarkatena Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 09/25/06
Posts: 19506
TRs: 99 Photos: 24
Loc: ked Down
All that corn and no skis?
All things to all people, all the time.

#685242 - 05/21/07 11:33 PM Re: [TR] Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir 5/12/2007 [Re: Serenity]
Valid ASB Offline

Registered: 12/20/06
Posts: 12
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Originally Posted By: Serenity
Cool report, thanks for posting it. I've always been interested in that peak since reading "Dharma Bums".

i've always wondered how many sierra climbers knew of that book and reference.

#687034 - 05/24/07 05:20 PM Re: [TR] Matterhorn Peak - East Couloir 5/12/2007 [Re: Valid ASB]
genepires Offline

Registered: 06/27/01
Posts: 3537
TRs: 8 Photos: 59
Loc: sharing-hood
sweet! classic looking area.
climbing is good enough for a lifetime but a lifetime is not good enough for climbing.


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