[TR] SEWS - Passenger 8/15/2009

[Rad]

Trip: SEWS - Passenger

 

Date: 8/15/2009

 

Trip Report:

Rain thwarted our plans to head for BC alpine rock, so we drove East on Hwy 20 instead. We spent a few hours dodging raindrops and getting spanked on Newhalem climbs on Friday. Here's an 11- on the left end of the wall, one of the easiest lines we found.

 

Clouds gave way to stars overnight, and we psyched up for the Passenger on SEWS. We neglected to print good descriptions from Mr. Tooth and Mr. Sun. Red Fred got us there just fine via the Blue Lake trail instead of from here:

 

This is a truly OUTSTANDING route, with great climbing on every pitch on very solid rock. Lots and lots of sustained 5.10, but the 5.11 sections are short, protected, and could be aided. I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.

 

Descend from SEWS shoulder and traverse along the E wall until you get to an obvious large gully. Cross it and traverse the black line to the tree at the start of the route.

Looking up at the route.

P1 is sustained finger crack goodness.

p1 roof (not the crux)

Hoping and groping on the roof on p2.

Wet fingerlocks leading up to a cool slot roof on p3.

Fingerlocks from above.

p3 roof slot

Slabosaurus.

Knuckle mantle downclimb jingus

Smearing and smiling.

 

 

P4 past the crux.

 

Cold belays bring out the bad dancers.

Traverse entry to the 5.10 ramp - others do the bombay chimney above this, we later learned.

The icing on the cake.

Awkward, wet, dirty, and very exposed moves on my lead. Still cool though.

Make a leftward traverse to a tree and then across to the final section. Pray the stacked blocks don't fall out.

The sunshine came out for only a few minutes while we were on route, but we had sunshine in our souls.

 

I'd say this is up there with CBR and the Grand Wall as one of the best routes I've done anywhere. Kudos to Burdo. It's totally doable for an 11- climber, particularly if you have a 20-something ropegun to lead the hard moves. Wish I'd drawn some of those leads, but I still had a blast and now have a reason to go back.

 

Gear Notes:

Mostly small gear. Doubles to #2 camalot, with extra finger sized pieces. One #3 camalot is useful for the last moves before the slot roof on p3. No larger gear needed.

 

Approach Notes:

Take Blue Lake trail to SEWS shoulder. Stash packs and approach shoes in tree, and take descending traverse along E wall. A large gully appears and then you cross it to get to the start. See pics

[wayne]

Great report. thanks for making it seem doable!

[mountainmatt]

Sweet!

 

Looks like another one to add to the list.

[Sol]

The Passenger is easily one of the best lines at the pass.

 

Once you climb it, it's a great stand-by if you can't think of something new to get on at the spires.

 

Great to see that big daddy brandon is still getting out.

 

[Rad]

The Passenger is easily one of the best lines at the pass. Once you climb it, it's a great stand-by if you can't think of something new to get on at the spires.

 

So how does the Hitchhiker compare in terms of quality?

 

Great to see that big daddy brandon is still getting out.

 

Not just getting out, he's getting it DONE!

[Sol]

The hitchiker is good but not nearly as quality as the passenger. It's definetly a bit forced and wanders around a bit. The 11b trad crux is engaging and freeing the A0 section toward the top of the route is tricky. Good line but not so classic.

[ryanb]

Nice work!

 

We did the traverse instead of the bombay as well it kind of seems like the better option...how hard is the bombay?

 

Also did the right (wide) crack at the section you call awkward and dirty but can't say it wasn't awkward...

[spiderman]

I did this a couple of weeks ago in warmer and dryer weather. I would definetly rank it as one of the best and highest quality WA pass routes!!! Stellar fingers, hands, and face most of the way. I did the 5.10 traverse too, as it looked much cleaner than the bombay chimney. A "must do" and should be on every climbers list!

 

 

[Rad]

We don't know how hard the bombay is as we didn't do it. It looked crumbly with poor feet and it is short. Climbing the face seemed like a more natural line. It's a bit runout but probably was only one 5.9 move and then easier than that up to the step across, which is protected.

 

Not sure where this wide crack is you mention. The part that was awkward was the wierd ramp with flaring jams and dirt/needles and the sheer drop to the left. One move involved crimping on a small feature, reaching way up to undercling the underside of a chockstone wedged into the dirt, kneeling on sloping pine needles, and then standing up. Actually, it was fine. This just needs some gardening and then it would be as good as the rest of the route.

[Wakaranai]

 

 

Great to see that big daddy brandon is still getting out.

 

 

Thanks Sol, I have been very much inspired by your trip reports. Keep us updated! Thanks again for the great climb fellas. I'll do it again anytime you want Rad. I need some revenge on the 2nd pitch, and you can lead the slab