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#543495 - 02/14/06 03:16 AM eugene?
astrov Offline
addicted to

Registered: 07/20/04
Posts: 474
TRs: 1 Photos: 22
Loc: Portland, OR
hey, I might go to school in Eugene but would like to know more about the climbing options before I commit to a place so far from the mountains with which I'm familiar ... what's the nearest climbing? Is there any climbing on the oregon coast? What are the options within a 2 hours drive? And is ice totally out of the question?

sorry that this is a question and not a route report. All apologies.
In the beginner's mind, there are many possibilities. In the mind of an expert, there are few.

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#543496 - 02/14/06 10:05 AM Re: eugene?
sweatinoutliquor Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/15/04
Posts: 761
TRs: 4 Photos: 91
Loc: Local Boyz
Goddamn you no questions in the TR forum!!!
Just kidding of course! Eugene is a cool town dude. Pretty alternative, but lot's of folks like it. As for climbing, I dunno where you are coming from, but ice climbing is certianly not something that the area is famous for. You can find some mixed stuff if the conditions are right, and on the north side of hood there are a few pretty amazing ice lines. Area is better for proximity to Smith Rock (3 hours) and for alpine routes in the Cascades. For the most part forget the oregon coast or coast range. Sure there are a few chossy gems, but nothing to write home and tell your parents about. You do have the Columns, or skinner butte, right there in town, which supposedly is an okay spot to stay in shape (basalt columns, single pitch if that, small area). You will be within 2 hours of a few intersting Cascades mossy gems such as Flagstone. So yeah, I dunno, it's not a bad area if you don't mind spending 2 hours in the car. Wait, shit, you coming from NH? That's where I came from. Damn brokofsky, don't expect much granite. The big hills are sick though.
When all else fails, play dead

#543497 - 02/14/06 10:13 AM Re: eugene?
John Frieh Offline

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6290
TRs: 56 Photos: 1214
Loc: PDX
No developed climbing on the OR coast.

In town: (Eugene/Springfield): skinners butte (handful of basalt columns), Crux Rock Gym

Within 2 hours: Sisters (bouldering), 3 sisters, Mt Washington, 3 Finger Jack (mtneering), Flagstone (trad and sport), Wolf Rock, Menagerie, Cock Rock (lane county classic! ), super secret mixed crag

Within 3 hours: Smith Rock, Trout Creek, Mt Hood, Mt Jefferson, all of Portland, Beacon, the gorge

Ice... Michael Layton said it best: If you stay in vermont you will get way more local water ice, but there is some to be had around here.
If you move to the PNW you will have access to more rewarding BIG ice climbs, but they will be few and far between. You'll be closer to road trips to the canadian rockies and montana, although flying there from vermont is way quicker than driving there from portland.

Vermont=more ice climbing for you
PNW=real alpinism, but with much hair pulling and failure

Awesome town! PM me if you have specific questions... I grew up here

#543498 - 02/14/06 01:58 PM Re: eugene?
corvallisclimb Offline
bolt nazi

Registered: 06/22/04
Posts: 1425
TRs: 20 Photos: 359

No developed climbing on the OR coast.

You are wrong, check the new rouge edition of the climb sw oregon series . Also I've heard stories of choss fests on the coast from old school guys.

also within 2 hours of of eugene are the Hills Creek Spires (Sport with a little trad), Moolack Columns(trad), the graden (bouldering)


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