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[TR] Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/8/2008


kevino

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Trip: Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier

 

Date: 6/8/2008

 

Trip Report:

Well I finally got around to posting one of these things..I know Sol already posted a TR but I figured I'd share some more photos and such.

 

1:45 am, alarm goes off and we eventually mosey out of our cars and start hiking. This is my fifth car to car trip - but the first one being able to park at the TH! What an amazing difference it not having to hike that fucking road. After wandering around the woods aimlessly we happen on this:

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We figured this to be the community bear spray bottle - thankfully we only had to dispense part of it. A little later we found this thing in the morning sun and decided to go climbing.

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Once we reached the snowline we noticed a highway of foot traffic leading to our climb. We also noticed someone decided to bring their pet with them, thankfully they left it at basecamp.

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After attaching some sharp objects to our feets and hands to headed upward and had some great alpine climbing.

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This whole face was falling apart. Thankfully we were past it when three avalanches/slides came down. Sure sounded good though.

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We thought we'd be more sheltered from falling stuff after getting into the coluior - this however turned out to be the exact opposite. After moving through the steady spindrift and ice fall, in which we were all hit at least five hundred times, Matt found the way out of the mess:

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Here are the other two teams coming down from the summit. Little did they know this was our plan to climb after them so we didn't have to do any thinking at all.

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After being lazy we decided to find the summit

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Being the old man that I am, I had to take my normal 11am nap.

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When Matt started down climbing to sherpa, my calfs said "fuck you, i've had enough front pointing for one day." so i took the lazy approach and just sat on my butt and slid down - I recommend everone to try it. Here you can see Matt, the team of two on the glacier, and the team of three waaaaaaaaay down at the bottom.

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I also took it upon myself to find a crevasse so everyone knows where not to go. What a great day.

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Gear Notes:

more food and water next time.

 

Approach Notes:

4 hours to base of mountain. 4 hours to top out. forever to get back to the car.

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