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Joe and I climbed some sweet lines on the Troy-Libby highway (Hwy 2) on Saturday. These routes are about 3 miles further (towards Troy) from the road cut ice. Park at the broad pullout on the riverside (at milepost 24). We climbed a 35m WI3+ route, and TR-ed a harder mixed line to the right on the same anchor. We then climbed a mixed route that possibly has not seen ascents before (local hardmen please chime in). I thought the route went at WI4 M4, but I'm not all that experienced to call the ratings (may be Joe will update the rating). The first pitch is around 55m, and is the harder one. Scramble almost a full rope length above the first pitch to climb 35 feet of fat WI3+ to finish the route on a tree anchor. After rapping the top pitch, We walked off skiers right.

 

The first pitch (follow the rope):

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Joe at the crux. Ice on the left of him is quite thin, and hollow. Stem and chimney up the thing. I was happy not to fall here when following :sick: .

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The fat upper pitch (which we could see from the road). Thanks for the leads Joe!

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There are at least a few other lines (possibly unclimbed) out there. Can't beat the super-short approaches. I definitely want to go back!!

Edited by pup_on_the_mountain
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Posted

Montana road tours can be very productive. Because of the smaller population, roadside climbing is not a problem for most police and highway patrol as long as you park off the road safely.

 

Nice pics Pup!

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