first ascent [TR] Mt. Snoqualmie, NW Face- Pineapple Express 2/9/2005

[Dan_Cauthorn]

Climb: Mt. Snoqualmie, NW Face-Pineapple Express

 

Date of Climb: 2/9/2005

 

Trip Report:

On my third attempt this year, Roger Strong and I finally climbed the line going up the longest part of the NW Face of Mt. Snoqualmie. It starts just left of the lowest point of the face in a hidden right facing corner. 7 long mixed pitches lead up and then right to an intersection with New York Gully. Follow last 2 pitches of NYG to the top. 1000' of primo Snoqualmie pass mixed climbing. We dubbed the route Pineapple Express, grade IV, 5.8, M6, WI3+ R.

 

Gear Notes:

60M rope,pins,nuts, cams, and lots of slings

 

Approach Notes:

Straight up Phanthom Slide, then drop into Thunder Creek basin and traverse to lowest point of face.

Edited February 12, 2005 by Dan_Cauthorn

[skykilo]

That sounds way cool. Got any pictures?

[Ade]

Another Cauthorn route to go try... Damn!!!

[klenke]

Hmmm? Where is it? The obvious buttress at right?

(Photo taken in Dec. '04 from Mt. Price.)

 

Note that there is no real North "Face." There is a North Ridge and a NW Face. Was it on the NW Face? map

 

[Ade]

Nah it must go up from the lowest point of the buttress to the climbers left from NYG.

[philfort]

Looks like there's a mini slot couloir on the right there in Klenke's photo... isn't shown at all on the topo map, but shows up on the aerial photo.

 

How's the coverage in Thunder Ck basin?

Edited February 12, 2005 by philfort

[Alex]

Photo: Roger Strong, Dan Cauthorn

[klenke]

Okay, as I expected, their route is on the Northwest Face. Cauthorn should change his TR title while he still can.

 

It would be a good short report entry for the NWMJ.

[Dan_Cauthorn]

Thanks for posting the picture... Pineapple Express is the orange line, New York Gully is red, and LA Express is yellow. Slot Couloir (hidden) is green line. I think that the easier mixed gully to the right of LA Express has been done as well.

 

Here's the pitch by pitch description of PE:

P1. AI 3+ R, 200ft. Right facing corner, Scottish style fun! Tree belay.

P2. Start up snow, then head up and left, pulling frozen heather into a mixed gully that leads straight to base of steep rock headwall. Belay at tree. M5 190 ft.

P3. M6 190 ft. start on right side of right facing corner, steep, but great gear to #3. Follow corner to tree belay.

P4. Cimb frozen mixed up and right around to trees. M4 120 ft.(Possible access to Slot Couloir at this point.)

P5. M3, 5.8 200ft. Scramble up through trees and squeeze right between the wall and a dead tree stump. Don’t traverse too far right, at 150 ft, pull a bulge (5.8) and climb up to a tree belay.

P6. Easy mixed straight up to flat belay at base of huge headwall. 5.4-ish,200ft.

P7. 5.2 200ft. traverse right below headwall and belay just before joining NYG.

P8. Step right into NYG, follow for 50', then break up through blocks and mixed ground to shoulder. 5.7, 200ft.

P9. Low fifth to summit.

[Chad_A]

Thanks for posting the picture... Pineapple Express is the orange line, New York Gully is red, and LA Express is yellow. Slot Couloir (hidden) is green line. I think that the easier mixed gully to the right of LA Express has been done as well.

 

Here's the pitch by pitch description of PE:

P1. AI 3+ R, 200ft. Right facing corner, Scottish style fun! Tree belay.

P2. Start up snow, then head up and left, pulling frozen heather into a mixed gully that leads straight to base of steep rock headwall. Belay at tree. M5 190 ft.

P3. M6 190 ft. start on right side of right facing corner, steep, but great gear to #3. Follow corner to tree belay.

P4. Cimb frozen mixed up and right around to trees. M4 120 ft.(Possible access to Slot Couloir at this point.)

P5. M3, 5.8 200ft. Scramble up through trees and squeeze right between the wall and a dead tree stump. Don’t traverse too far right, at 150 ft, pull a bulge (5.8) and climb up to a tree belay.

P6. Easy mixed straight up to flat belay at base of huge headwall. 5.4-ish,200ft.

P7. 5.2 200ft. traverse right below headwall and belay just before joining NYG.

P8. Step right into NYG, follow for 50', then break up through blocks and mixed ground to shoulder. 5.7, 200ft.

P9. Low fifth to summit.

 

Hi, Dan. Good to see your trip report here. I was wondering, do you train for your M climbs, or have you gained experience on mixed ground throughout your climbing career enough to simply be comfortable on that terrain? NYG and Pineapple Express both look interesting, and I would love to attempt one or both; I'm comfortable on ice, but M6? Sheesh. Also, out of curiosity, what kind of 'pons and tools do you use? I'm asking because I've seen your name in Nelson's books quite prevalently, and it appears that you've been climbing for quite some time. Do you "old school" it with the gear, or do you prefer some of the newer stuff? Thanks for your reply in advance. Good to see you on the site.

---Chad---

[Rafael_H]

Rog and Dan, what an inspiration, thank you. You rock!