[TR] Mt Adams - Pinnacle Headwall 6/30/2010

[ScaredSilly]

Trip: Mt Adams - Pinnacle Headwall

 

Date: 6/30/2010

 

Trip Report:

Mount Adams, sometimes the neglected step sister to Rainier but still a prize. After completing our run up Rainier a few days either Vince and I headed off to Mount Adams hoping to escape the winds we found a few days before on Mount Rainier (Furher Finger).

 

Being still early season we decided to try something with reasonable access but with good climbing. The Pinnacle Headwall seem to fit the bill. Steep climbing with a nice descent down the west ridge. All we needed to do was get there. Fred said to come in from the south but it seemed that the Riley Trail would be better. Especially as we figured we would cross country part of it.

 

Finding the Riley trail head is problematic as it is not marked with any road signage. Further the trail is not immediately obvious from the road as there hardly any pull off along the shoulder. The only reason we found it was because we trying to turn around at that location and we saw a trail sign about 100' up in the woods.

 

After about 30 minutes of hiking we hit a junction Riley and Riley Cutoff. Thinking the cutoff would get us to Crest Trail faster we chose that option. We chose the wrong option as latter we figured out that it took us farther south than we wanted.

That cutoff probably cost us 2 hours of extra hiking. Arrg!

 

After 6 hours or so of hiking with the last three cross country on snow finally we reached the base of the West Ridge. After a nice bivy the next morning we started up the headwall. We went pretty much straight up the headwall which was just to the right of the original route. We had great nevé and with slope being around 35-45 degrees it was great cramponing. We carried a rope and two pickets but never used them. That said a fall would a have resulted in a 2000' or greater ride.

 

Near the top Fred indicated that the headwall joined with West Ridge which then joined in with the NW Ridge. I found all that odd as it would involve traversing left a bit more than looked reasonable for the conditions. Though Vince thought it would go. Instead we went straight up to the top of the headwall and then found an easy exit to the right around the rock and rime buttress.

 

From there the slope kicked back and we walked up to the West Summit. I was ahead of Vince by about 45 minutes so I walked over to the main summit and back.

For the descent we retraced our tracks down the upper part of the headwall and over to the West Ridge. We walked down the ridge back to our camp. Along the way we marveled at the activity of the west ridge and enjoyed the goats.

 

On the way out we traveled pretty much due west on snow figuring we would hit the Riley trail once we got deep in to the woods. Nope we went just a bit south and hit the Riley Cutoff trail. Not realizing our mistake again we wasted an hour hiking in the wrong direction.

 

All in all I found the Pinnacle Headwall to be a gem. Fred says it is a Grade II. However, I would say it is a bit more than that because of how continuous and long it is. Similarly I think the West Ridge is a bit more serious than a Grade I as the upper part goes onto some pretty exposed slopes where a fall would be quite serious.

 

One photo showing the headwall. The route we took goes pretty much straight up through the rocks to the summit buttress before exiting to the right.

 

 

After that Vince and I took a couple of rest days before heading off to Mount Hood (North face).

 

Gear Notes:

Single tool for those comfortable big open slopes.

 

Approach Notes:

Riley Trail to PCT then cross country to the West Ridge. Do not use the Riley Cutoff.

[Dane]

You're "da" man last week Nice work!

[mountainsloth]

looks like a fun route. i'll keep it in mind when i get out to adams. Thanks.