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ilias

[TR] Mount Triumph - NE Ridge 8/22/2016

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Trip: Mount Triumph - NE Ridge

 

Date: 8/22/2016

 

Trip Report:

For Mike and Evan's grad climb with the Boealps ICC, we climbed the NE Ridge of Mt Triumph. Tyler and I were there as instructors, but really we just stood back as Mike and Evan as they did all the hard work of planning, navigating, and leading the route. Nice work guys! Awesome climb.

 

Here was our timeline...

 

Friday

9:00 pm - leave trailhead

11:30pm - arrive at camp at lower Thornton Lake

 

Saturday

6:00 am - leave camp

7:30 am - arrive at the saddle

9:00 am - arrive at the notch at the base of the NE ridge

12:00pm - climbing the 5.7 offwidth pitch

1:00 pm - summit

1:45 pm - leave summit

5:30 pm - back at notch

7:30 pm - back at camp at the saddle

 

Sunday

6:30 am - leave camp

9:30 am - arrive at car

 

Lot's of fun ridge climbing and great views. Best sights of the Pickets that I've seen from anywhere so far. Definitely gonna have to go there soon!

 

More photos here:

https://goo.gl/photos/dhyvV86dD7ozRvqD9

 

First view of Triumph:

20160820_075519.jpg

 

Coming down from the Saddle:

20160820_080106.jpg

 

Crossing the glacier towards the notch:

20160820_082533.jpg

 

Looking back across the glacier:

20160820_090917.jpg

 

Bushy climbing low on the NE ridge:

20160820_100558.jpg

 

Even on the knife edge:

20160820_112018.jpg

 

The 5.7 "offwidth" crux. It did not actually involve making any offwidth moves, it's a super featured corner that you could climb using just about any technique:

20160820_115907.jpg

 

Summit group shot:

20160820_134335.jpg

 

Tyler admiring the greatness of the Great Notch:

20160820_143258.jpg

 

Views of the pickets:

20160820_165713.jpg

 

Triumph at sunset with Google deciding to stylize the photo for me:

20160821_061616-EFFECTS.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Single rack to #2 was plenty.

Crampons and axes were nice for a short section of steepish snow near the saddle before you get onto the glacier.

Edited by ilias

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Nice report, I am shocked at the amount of glacial recession since I was there in July 2013. In a couple of years it will be climbable with approach shoes and no axe or crampons. Makes me sad.

 

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Nice report, I am shocked at the amount of glacial recession since I was there in July 2013. In a couple of years it will be climbable with approach shoes and no axe or crampons. Makes me sad.

 

It was actually very close to climbable that way on this trip. We only had approach shoes, and the axe and crampons were only necessary for a ~100 ft section below the saddle going around left of that hump that's there. If we had cared to scramble down rocks a little ways and then back up, we could have avoided that one steeper snow bit and never put our crampons on.

 

I could tell that those slabs were very recently covered in glacier, super smoothly polished. At the same time, I was actually surprised at the remaining size of the glacier, given it's aspect and elevation.

 

I doubt there will be a glacier there at all in 10 years.

Edited by ilias

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A little over three weeks makes a lot of difference on the snow field. There was a lot of water rushing under it though on the 27/28th of July...

 

Last pic is cool. I gotta get a real camera I guess.

 

d

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A little over three weeks makes a lot of difference on the snow field. There was a lot of water rushing under it though on the 27/28th of July...

 

Last pic is cool. I gotta get a real camera I guess.

 

d

 

Lots of water rushing off it this weekend too!

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