bubble Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 I have a climbing rope that I've had for 10 yrs now, I retired it for rock climbing a couple years ago. Usage was moderate in its day, no major whippers on it. Friends want to use it for glacier travel, and their motto was " that's a perfect glacier rope". Any thoughts, or suggestions on this? My initial thought was if I retired it for climbing, why would it still be ok for glacier travel? Wouldn't the water factor weaken it even more, and putting pulleys on it, the likely hood would be it snapping in a situation? Quote
max Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Safe? Sure. 99% of the "falls" on a glacier just aren't falls, they're slips, and the forces involved are 1/20 those involved in even top rope climbing. Your rope won't snap. A good rope for a glacier? Doubt it. Admittedly, I've become more of a gear snob, but even a moderate size crag rope is too fat, too fuzz, too long, and primarily too heavy for a glacier rope. Safe, but not preferred. I have an old half rope (8.something by 100') that's been my glacier rope for a while now. But, as they say in tonasket, "run what ya brung." Quote
JasonG Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 As Max said, perfectly safe but probably less than ideal due to the size, fuzziness, and propensity to absorb water. It won't snap though, that's for sure. I have a friend that uses an old climbing rope to tow cars out of snowbanks all winter long. It sure looks like it is going to break when he steps on the gas, but it just stretches and stretches. Modern ropes are pretty amazing. Quote
RonLester Posted August 9, 2016 Posted August 9, 2016 Pro Tip: 'graciously' offer to carry the rope on the way up, before it absorbs half the glacier. Quote
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