Jump to content

[TR] Three Fingered Jack, Mt Washington, S Sister


Recommended Posts

Trip: Oregon Volcano Fest - Three Fingered Jack, Mount Washington, South Sister


Dates: 5/28 - 5/30/2016


Trip Report:

Check out a few of the key/useful/interesting photos from the climbs here: https://goo.gl/photos/PMaLJQpKZq5MKNKk7

(Look at the "info" for each photo for details)


Over the Memorial Day weekend, a truly fantastic human being named Andy and I had our first-ever OREGON VOLCANO FEST. We climbed Three Fingered Jack, Mount Washington, and the South Sister. I think our times are probably average.


Three Fingered Jack -- South Ridge


7:15 am - Left trailhead/car

12:00 pm - At summit

4:30 pm - Back to TH


There is already a plethora of beta/information on this route, but I'll add some personal touches:

- On the route, remember to stay climber's left (west) and go up the scree-y ledges. There was still some rime ice and patchy snow, but all of the rock that we wanted to be snow-free was indeed clear.

- The "crawl" section felt fine to us and we did not protect it. We did see one pin (down low) on the descent.

- The shallow chimney crux is pretty short (I placed one cam and slung a horn) and easy; the rock looks absolutely terrible (more terrible than the rest of the route), but I found it to actually be pretty solid.

- There are several rap stations with decent-looking webbing. There is one station at the top of the chimney, and there is also a station from the summit block. From the top of the chimney to the actual summit there is a bit of an exposed scramble on very terrible quality rock.. it sketched us out a bit to downclimb. So if you aren't up for that, I'd recommend just rapping from the summit block to the bottom of the chimney.

- We saw only one other party, who was approaching as we were on our way out.



Mount Washington -- North Ridge


7:30 am - Left trailhead/car

1:30 am - At summit

6:00 pm - Back to TH


- The climber's trail is marked very obviously with a giant cairn; right now, discontinuous snow starts a bit before it

- There was some steepish/exposed snow we took on the ridge

- Rock quality is ridiculously bad. Bring all your good luck charms on this climb.

- After the first pitch, we traversed right around a corner and went up that way, which worked for us (I got a couple hand jams!!)

- Andy signed the summit register -- first entries of the year, what?

- Several rap stations with lots of OK-looking webbing and rings/quicklinks.

- The NW bowl looks "AWESOME" for skiing right now, said Andy.

- No other parties on route! Just some skiiers.


South Sister

Times are embarrassing so I'm not publicizing them. My fault, not Andy's!

- We opted to carry our skis through the woods instead of trying to skin, I think it was the best choice (snow was icy and discontinuous + there are some steep steps)

- Skiing was AWESOME, great snow!


All in all, a fantastic holiday weekend!!


Gear Notes:

For Three Fingered Jack and Mt Washington:

Cams- .75, 1, 2 [only used 3 cam placements total]

A few larger nuts [never used]

3 single, 3 double slings [most useful]

1x60m twin-half rope [necessary]

1 picket [never used]

Crampons, axe


Approach Notes:

We found that for these three climbs, the snow level was around 5,200'.


Edited by Alisse
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 1
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...