Early Season Climbing Options

[JJ Walsh]

Hello!

 

I'm heading out next week (5/14) for a week of climbing in the pacific north west. Previous trips have been peak season so trip planning has been a lot easier. I have been able to research a lot of early season possibilities but I'm wondering if you guys could add some suggestions or correct me if I'm headed down a bad path with any of these. We're looking for a class 2-3 glacier route to a major summit. We have currently studied:

 

Ingraham Direct - Rainier

Adams Glacier - Mt Adams

Easton Glacier - Mt Baker

Blue Glacier - Mt Olympus (not really expecting this to be a viable option this early)

Hogsback - Mt Hood

and, just in case everything north is in rough shape

Avalanche Gulch - Shasta

 

Thanks for taking the time to read this. We're from New Hampshire and generally plan our trips out west for July but this year the only time we could all get to together was mid-May so finding routes without access limitations or higher avy danger has been a bit of a challenge!

 

Justin

 

[diepj]

In my opinion you will find all of these mountains in condition. Right now is high season for a lot of routes!

 

IMO you should be able to tackle at least 2 things if the weather is good. I wouldn't go to Shasta unless that's the only place with climbable weather.

 

Rainier I haven't seen any recent reports, but they have mountaineering rangers on staff you can talk to. Give them a call and see what they say. I would expect that ID might be out of condition. Its more of a winter route and become impassable pretty quick. You might be better off researching the Disappointment cleaver. Its a great route to break into Rainier on.

 

Mt Hood you can do in a day and is recommended. Hogsback route is certainly in condition right now with several options and is the standard introduction to the mountain. If you're experienced you might check out Leuthold couloir. Its also easily done in a day and is a little more interesting.

 

Adams glacier is probably in but this is going to take you several days. I.e. you'll probably be left picking between this and Rainier. I haven't climbed the route but I've had it recommended. Up to you but I'm guessing you'll pick Rainier if you have the option. Also this will be the overall most difficult in terms of approach/climb/descent that you have listed. This isn't to discourage but you won't find much recent beta and you probably won't see many other climbers. Definitely higher on the adventure scale that Hood or Rainer.

 

That last statement excludes Olympus but unless you're trying to tick some list off stick to the other peaks. That climb will take all of your week and from what I've heard it's not really that interesting.

 

Baker also should be in and you might be able to find a recent TR.

 

Welcome and have fun!

[diepj]

Oh and watch the weather, if it looks bad or questionable before you leave check the Bend, OR forecast and bring your rock gear for Smith and you might avoid getting completely skunked. That said we've been in a pretty good weather pattern the last couple weeks...

[JJ Walsh]

Thanks a ton for the info! We've climbed Rainier on both our previous trips and were really looking forward to branching out a bit. I'm relieved to hear that the season has taken off. We are planning on two climbs while out there (unless we go for Olympus).

 

Do you (or anyone) have information on whether the access road to the North side of Mt Adams is open yet?

[Jason4]

A lot of friends have been up Baker lately on the Coleman-Deming route, it looks like it's skiing nicely. The road to the trailhead opened up tentatively a couple of weeks ago, I'd expect it to close again is we get a really heavy rainstorm. The south side (Easton) should be driveable to the trailhead now but there's going to be snow most of the way from there. I'd skip that side just because of the southern exposure. It sounds like the Sulphide Glacier on Shuksan is in good shape right now too. The approach access for the south side of Baker and the south side of Shuksan is pretty close together.

 

Cascade River Road has been closed for a few weeks but that'll open up again on Friday which opens access to Boston Basin, Eldorado, and J'burg.

[curtveld]

Do you (or anyone) have information on whether the access road to the North side of Mt Adams is open yet?

 

The FS has lots of good info on-line, start here: http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/giffordpinchot/recreation/recarea/?recid=80023. If you can't find a specific answer, call the Mt Adams Ranger Station.

 

Having done most of those mountains over the years, I'd say Olympus was one of my favorites. It is more of a nice climb to top off an amazing wilderness backpack. Very different from the drive-up volcanoes.

[Rad]

Olympus was awesome. So beautiful. If you do it, go very light as it's a really long approach.

 

Snow is melting fast. Temps are warm. Think of this as June, not May. So now is a good time to do many of the objectives you mention.

[alpine et]

Easton is actually quite nice right now. Drive to within 1/2 mile of the trail head. A few weeks ago we took a direct approach right up the first major drainage of the glacier and went straight up. you'll probably be following the trail further and end up on other side of railroad grade now with snow melting out, but still a great climb, and awesome ski. Skiied well this past weekend too I heard.

[canela]

Does anyone have any thoughts on what the W Ridge of Forbidden would be like this weekend? I know the road opens Friday, but does anyone have any info as to snowpack in Boston Basin, or how dry the ridge is?

[curtveld]

Does anyone have any thoughts on what the W Ridge of Forbidden would be like this weekend? I know the road opens Friday, but does anyone have any info as to snowpack in Boston Basin, or how dry the ridge is?

No....but I do know that you will get more responses if you start a new thread for your question

[canela]

Ah that just seems cluttered to me.

 

I called Marblemount rangers and they said they might open the road this Friday evening but only to El Dorado parking; it would be another 2-3 miles to walk up the road to the Boston Basin TH. No word as to when the end of the road will open.