mvs Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 was in fine form Saturday. There was a very warm wind above the ice fog, kind of like standing behind a laundrymat in some places. We left crampons and 2nd tools at the base, just taking an axe for the snowfield on pitch 3. Snowshoes or skis were needed for the approach. The NE Slab looked too thin for me (the canonical poseur) to have fun on. We climbed steep snow and trees to the summit of Baby Tooth to finish up the day. It was disappointing not to find the mixed conditions we hoped for in winter, but on the other hand, you don't often get June in January, and should enjoy it! Dance for me, oh puffy creature! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Geez Michael...how many times is that up Da Toof for you? Are you going for an ascent in every month of the year? At least you were able to get out this weekend, I was stuck in the office. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 Apparently. As Pilchuck is to Scot'teryx, Toof is to me. Wanted Chair. Too warm for us scardy cats. Again with the dancing! Oh you make me laugh!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 We (yours truly and Eric8) wanted to go do The North Face of Chair today. When we heard on the radio that pass temps were in the 30s instead of 20s, we forgot about Chair and passed out in the truck until 6. We then managed to get to Source Lake without losing the trail!!!!!!!!!!! and slowly went up to the tooth basin to check out the NE slab. The slab looks horrendously thin, so we toproped some short, steep ice flows on the right side of the valley. It was great, my first water ice experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted January 20, 2003 Author Share Posted January 20, 2003 We saw those, looked neat! You know, there is an ice climb on the east face of the Tooth, which goes up a wide shallow gully to connect with a left-leading snow ramp to the upper face. That looked climbable if a little colder. Maybe it has a name, I dunno. Some tracks went to the base of it, but not higher. Stop you're killing me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted January 20, 2003 Share Posted January 20, 2003 Yup, we looked that that too. The finish might be interesting/hard though. Right now I want to work on my water ice skills. ICE ROCKS! (sounds kinda contradictory, actually?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nolanr Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 A friend of mine did the NE slab, I believe it was the Sunday before yesterday. Said it was real thin, hairy in places, not a lot of good places to put pro. That's been his white whale, he's been trying that sucker off and on for the last 3 or 4 years several times each year. I think he can retire from climbing now, what's left to do after that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 21, 2003 Share Posted January 21, 2003 Had a go at the East face of the Tooth. The ice was thin, but it was the warm temps that shut the attempt down a pitch and a half up. The NE Slab looked very good, but for sure was likely to be similarly affected by the warm temps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Dan - Did you try that steep line a couple hundred yards left of the NE Slabs route, that starts with a vertically trending pitch to a diagonal left trending ramp? Were you planning to follow the ramp and head around to top out on the S. Face or to bear up and right to complete the climb on the E. Face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Yes. We started up a broad, shallow gulley to the big ramp. We intended on meeting the S Face. Warm temps and poor ice conditions shut us down just short of the ramp. Nice line, though, I'll be back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slugger Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Is anyone up for the tooth or other nearby climbable entity this weekend, if the weather is not too crap? I am going to go mad if I dont get out soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 I am not sure that area would be the best place to hang out this weekend after 24 inches of new snow on top of a nice solid snow layer. Not to mention not being able to find the ice because it is burried under all the new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dumpster_Diver Posted January 23, 2003 Share Posted January 23, 2003 Parked in front of the TV set , the climbing gym, or a nice spot for skiing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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