Belay Device

[christinamcobb]

I just got back from a trip where I dropped by Petzl reverso from the top of a climb, so I'm in the market for a new belay device and have been interested in some auto locking devices. I own a Grigri 2, which I like, but then lowering it can be a bit glitchy.

 

I'm looking for a new device to get that have an auto lock system that I can also us for top belay and repelling.

 

Thoughts?

[Buckaroo]

There was a gear study where someone compared all the passive auto-lockers, in particular how easy the rope pulled through when belaying the follower. Can't remember where but someone on here probably knows.

 

I have several of these and the action on them varies in particular depending on the rope you are using. I like the original Reverso (no longer available new). But I think the BD guide ATC won out in the comparison test.

 

The Gri-Gri 1 is heavier than the 2 but it's easier to use and not as glitchy. Like the passive devices the Gri-Gris also act differently depending on the rope. A slick (new) rope works better.

[JasonG]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/elbow-saving-belays/

 

This what you were thinking of?

[Buckaroo]

http://cascadeclimbers.com/elbow-saving-belays/

 

This what you were thinking of?

 

Yes, and although they didn't test the Guide ATC someone else in the comment section did.

[Linnaeus]

... I like the original Reverso (no longer available new). But I think the BD guide ATC won out in the comparison test.

 

I would be cautious with the original Reverso, it doesn't provide great friction for catching lead falls, in fact I recall reading it was the worst or among the worst.

 

For ease of belaying a second off the anchor, a Kong Gigi or CAMP belay plate are the easiest to move rope through. Works great as an emergency rap device, and has other uses too (i.e. emergency ascender).

[ilias]

Edelrid Mega Jul

 

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/edelrid-mega-jul-review

 

I use it and like it. I'd say the only notable downside is it takes slightly more effort to pull the rope through the device when belaying someone up in guide mode, as compared to a standard BD ATC Guide.