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Belay Device


christinamcobb

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I just got back from a trip where I dropped by Petzl reverso from the top of a climb, so I'm in the market for a new belay device and have been interested in some auto locking devices. I own a Grigri 2, which I like, but then lowering it can be a bit glitchy.

 

I'm looking for a new device to get that have an auto lock system that I can also us for top belay and repelling.

 

Thoughts?

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There was a gear study where someone compared all the passive auto-lockers, in particular how easy the rope pulled through when belaying the follower. Can't remember where but someone on here probably knows.

 

I have several of these and the action on them varies in particular depending on the rope you are using. I like the original Reverso (no longer available new). But I think the BD guide ATC won out in the comparison test.

 

The Gri-Gri 1 is heavier than the 2 but it's easier to use and not as glitchy. Like the passive devices the Gri-Gris also act differently depending on the rope. A slick (new) rope works better.

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... I like the original Reverso (no longer available new). But I think the BD guide ATC won out in the comparison test.

 

I would be cautious with the original Reverso, it doesn't provide great friction for catching lead falls, in fact I recall reading it was the worst or among the worst.

 

For ease of belaying a second off the anchor, a Kong Gigi or CAMP belay plate are the easiest to move rope through. Works great as an emergency rap device, and has other uses too (i.e. emergency ascender).

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