jiri Posted May 27, 2015 Posted May 27, 2015 Trip: Mount Jefferson - Jefferson Park Glacier Date: 5/24/2015 Trip Report: This is just a short TR about the conditions on the Jefferson Park Glacier. The glacier is in good shape with two solid ways to cross the bergschrund. Two of us went up the avalanche cone and the second rope team up the bridge. The knife-edge ridge and the summit pinnacle were completely rime ice covered. Gear Notes: For the 4 of us we had 2 30m ropes, 4 pickets, 4 screws, 2 small racks. With last weekend conditions the pickets were the most useful. Approach Notes: Whitewater TH Quote
ScaredSilly Posted May 27, 2015 Posted May 27, 2015 Nice, looks like great conditions. How did you descend?? Quote
jiri Posted May 27, 2015 Author Posted May 27, 2015 We went down the Whitewater glacier. It is longer but there was a booth path set from teams climbing that side. The snow was very soft below red saddle for about 500ft. Not what we were hoping for after a long day. The traverse below the pinnacle has a lot of objective hazard from falling rime ice. We had one close call. Quote
Water Posted May 28, 2015 Posted May 28, 2015 any pictures of the west face from up top of JPG? thinking about SW Rib. Realize the majority of skiing is long gone but wondering how melted out it is or not.. thanks Quote
SethKL Posted May 29, 2015 Posted May 29, 2015 Nice work Jiri and team! Pardon my inter-TR-posting, but I have a bit of info on the W side and skiing conditions per Water's question: On 05/25 at ca. 1 pm my partner and myself skied SW and W aspects of the NW ridge. Weather began as upper 20s and was ca upper 30s with sun (mostly) during the ski descent. Snow was tasty corn. I expect all W and SW aspects of the MT are consistent with what we had...the climbing was fabulous. Looking East from Woodpecker ridge Thousands of feet of corn Go get it! P.S. The following day we discovered Mt. Washington's W bowl to have enough snow for similar skiing (softer) from the base of pinnacle to treeline. Quote
Water Posted June 3, 2015 Posted June 3, 2015 SethKL... nice tracks amigo thanks for the beta, plans didn't go off unfortunately and with schedules it looks like my west rib dreams push another year off...but it isn't going anywhere! [img:left]http://i.imgur.com/nu0GUzp.jpg[/img] Quote
Dylan Colon Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 I am considering attempting this route this coming weekend. In light of all of the hot weather, I'm worried about nasty unprotectable slop on the summit pinnacle, especially because the freezing level will be at least 11,000 ft. Thoughts? Quote
Ben Beckerich Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 I wonder if there's even any snow left on the pinnacle Quote
Dylan Colon Posted June 10, 2015 Posted June 10, 2015 If it was completely encased 2.5 weeks ago, do you think the recent weather could really get rid of all of it? Quote
Ben Beckerich Posted June 11, 2015 Posted June 11, 2015 Tough to say, but I know it's been muy caliente, windy, and bright as a mofo for most of that time, and the prominent rock features melt out first (like the pinnacle). But - if you could get within visual distance of the mountain, you'd be able to tell with a decent pair of binos.... I personally have never laid eyes on the west face of Jefferson from farther away than standing on it... hard aspect to catch a look at for some reason. Quote
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