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MrGecko

DROPZONE/FARSIDE - Route Updates

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A new route went in The Landing area called Thin Line 5.10c

 

It has four bolts and some thin gear and currently ends at the Dark Horse Anchors. It may get a direct finish sometime in the future.

 

The Oracle 5.10c has had two bolts added.

 

2015-05-20_09_26_22.png

 

Oracle.jpg

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The roof bolt on the Oracle was definitely a positive addition as it really sucked whether you did it my way with just pro below the roof or Arent's way with a BD #6 above the roof in the slot.

 

The second bolt, however, is an unwelcome addition as there is absolutely bomb pro to the right of it in the crack. And if a bolt were going to be at that level it should be on the opposite wall a foot right of the crack and up about a foot.

 

Arent's call as the FA, but the second bolt really detracts from what is arguably one of the Gorge's top 10 trad leads.

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STEP & FETCH IT, previously a top rope line, is now open for leading.

A couple of bolts were added (with the permission of the FA) including one for the crux start.

 

Bring a bunch of 0.5" microcams as they work well for pro on this route.

 

More info: STEP & FETCH IT

 

 

Step_Fetch_It.jpg

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Topher, that bolt may need to move to the right to where the actual crux problem is...

 

Step_Fetch_It1.jpg

 

 

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That topo shows an approximate position of the bolt and route. I've lead it and it flows nicely to protect the crimps right of the bolt. Taller folks can go left of the bolt more easily and if you really want to skip the crux you can step far left and go up the corner.

 

Let's climb it next time you are out :)

Edited by MrGecko

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Hmmm. All fine except that's not the route or the crux problem that defines it. Let's do get on it and take a look...

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Freak Freely, 5.10b has a direct start that is a bit of a boulder problem but can be protected from the ground with a good nut to keep your arse out of the dirt. It raises the grade a notch or so but worth a go.

 

Untitled54.jpg

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Good job Topher. I'd looked at that direct start and choose to do the (easier) curved one. Wouldn't want to flip off anywhere at the start on either one of those routes. Good to see he's sending route updates along to you Tim.

 

I'm not good enough to do this route right now, either start, but hopefully will work up to it soonish. There had been a slightly looshish rock at the higher crux that was a good hold and piece of pro combo. Given no mention of it, I wonder if it's gone. If you are leading this, keep an eye out @ 3/4 of the way up.

 

 

 

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Freak Freely has now got its own set of top anchors. This avoids the need to traverse to either of the adjacent route anchors.

 

The bigger questionable blocks were jumped on and tested and are fine and secure.

 

A bunch of gardening was done to clean up this route.

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Good job. It's now been completely cleaned out and put back in commission and will suffer much less final rope drag with the new anchor.

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Step & Fetch It (5.10a) now has its own top anchors. The route to the right of it called The Martyr (5.8) and which goes through the roof was extended and now shares the top anchors with Step & Fetch It.

 

Mountain Project has been updated to reflect the changes.

 

The image/topo is shown below.

 

 

 

Untitled107.jpg

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Tunnel Vision received a new bolt at the lip (crux) and it is intended to be clipped after the big throw. Not sure that I would want to keep hucking away and landing on the section of rock below but to each their own. This would be an impressive onsight.

 

 

The sketchy short knife blade pin on Lonesome Winner has now been replaced by a proper bolt.

 

 

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