[TR] Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs 5/3/2015

[bellows]

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 5/3/2015

 

Trip Report:

Triple Couloirs was in hero shape on Sunday. Two beautiful pitches up the runnels and a fun pitch with solid ice in the second to third couloir transition. Bucket steps up the couloirs themselves eases the calf strain.

 

Nate G and I had our mind on Gerber-Sink on the hike in but in the early dawn it looked thin and we didn’t bring enough mojo. No regrets though, we heard some pretty big rockfall on the route while we were lounging at the bottom of the third couloir where the G-S joins it. Apparently there were two climbers (in blue jackets) on the route at some point during the day, hope they didn’t have to deal with the rockfall we heard.

 

Nice view of the route from the far side of the lake, taken on the way out:

 

Easy entrance on the far left side:

 

Friendly party of two ahead of us on the route. They were fun to chat with as we sporadically met up with them at belays.

 

Bucket steps!

 

Views of Stuart never get old:

 

Colchuck Lake, melted out for travel:

 

My second time on the route, a walk in the park compared to last year. What a difference conditions can make. If you've ever wanted to get on the route in cruiser conditions, now is the time.

 

Approach Notes:

Dirt trail to Colchuck lake. You can no longer cross the lake, but you can walk along the south edge of the lake on the beach/ice debris and avoid much of the boulder field.

[Trent]

Nate: Getting after it! Nice! I was up there a week ago and the Gerber-Sink looked a bit thin on the bottom then as well.

 

[anthonyorkiolla]

Looks awesome, I noticed that the temp lows at colchuck are now in the low 40 With 60+ during the day. Do you think it will still be in tomorrow, or too much melt and not enough freeze? thanks for the tr!

[mthorman]

I did Gerber Sink yesterday and things were just near perfect. However yesterday was much colder and coming off a couple of cold/storm days. I suspect things will be soft today through the weekend. You would probably be fine tomorrow on Triple Couloirs as it is more of a snow than ice climb. I would just go really early in the morning (we topped out at 9:30am in March when climbing Triple Couloirs). Good luck!

[bellows]

My guess is with clear nights and an early start it will still be in really good condition this weekend. Last weekend freezing levels were forecasted at 8-9000' but with clear skies and radiant cooling the snow & ice froze up really well all the way down to the lake.

[Buckaroo]

I'm skeptical for this weekend

 

sat sun freeze level 9,500 to 10,300

 

weather.gov high 47, low 34

 

def want to go early like an hour or three before sunrise

[jdvierstra]

Nice report -- I am the guy climbing at the base of the ice runnels in the third picture. Killer conditions and perfect weather. BTW -- my wife has a picture of you guys high up the route from the lake that I will post when I get it from her camera.

 

Jeff

[Nate G]

Nate: Getting after it! Nice! I was up there a week ago and the Gerber-Sink looked a bit thin on the bottom then as well.

 

Thanks Smack! I need you to hurry up and come back, all my partners have left or are busy for the next couple weekends!