Jeff Park route descent?

[111]

Hai guys! Long time no see! So some buddies and I are going to try for Jefferson again next weekend, weather permitting and I wanted to get some descent beta. Last attempt we bailed below the summit and descended the milk glacier then traversed back to camp... which sucked. We were looking for rap stations but came up empty on the usual ones I think due to snow covering them. Can anyone tell me if there is a better way to get down besides reversing the ridge or coming down milk glacier? I don't fancy either.

Kthxbai.

[Ben Beckerich]

Why'd Milk Creek suck? I thought that was pretty straightforward, for descent.. especially if you're carrying over and descending all the way from the summit. I think Whitewater is kind of the traditional descent, but man.. what a long ass walk.

[ScaredSilly]

Rap stations?? I know of none except on the summit block. As for the descent, I have done the Mill Creek / Russell Glacier shuffle twice. The Milk Creek can be bit of shit show when soggy. The Russell however is rather pleasant. As Ben said Whitewater is a long ass walk around to the park.

[powderhound]

Snow ballard on top is what I think is most common to get off the summit pinnacle. Good luck out there.

[Ben Beckerich]

There is a large Boulder ringed with tat on the north end of the summit, and I left a cordelette and biner around another boulder just above the busted up north shoulder of the summit pinnacle. Buried under rime and snow, I doubt you're going to easily find these. But if the ridge is pretty scoured, just look for the prominent bulges and dig.

 

I would think these same features could be fairly easily slung and rapped off even covered in frozen water. I haven't been up there in spring conditions though.

[Ben Beckerich]

Since we're on the topic of Jeffery ... what's access look like right now? With the absolutely horrible snowfall we've had this year, I'm gonna guess you could take your Civic all the way to the trailhead?

[powderhound]

Drove to the trailhead and walked all the way to jeff park in tenniess shoes a couple weeks ago. Found the snow not as nevey as I would have liked on the north face, but should have firmed up by now. Getting around the schrund looks interesting as I don't think there was ever enough snow this year to fill it in.

[Ben Beckerich]

The best part of the whole route is climbing the schrund(s)!