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Nate G

Kautz Glacier Late Season Conditions

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We are planning on doing a 2 day ascent of kautz glacier the weekend of September 6th and 7th. I was wondering if anyone had any experience climbing the route in the late season, specifically how cracked up will the nisqually be and is there another option for late season approach. All info is appreciated!

 

Thanks

Nate

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Go up via van trump park by way of Comet Falls TH. No glacier crossing down low. Nate I see you posted in the forums earlier that you are relatively new to climbing as of this year and were looking to take some type of RMI/AAI training.

 

You've investigated the Kautz route, especially at this time of year? I don't mean to poo poo if you are solid for it but I probably wouldn't recommend doing this route now if this is your 'first' time climbing. Get up Adams, St. Helens in the winter.. Hood in the spring.. all great test pieces to get you dialed in for Rainier.

 

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I did the aai alpine ice course at the end of July, that was 5 days of hard ice climbing and an ascent of mt baker not to mention all of the other smaller trips I have done thus far (dragontail, Sloan, etc.) so my ice climbing and glacier travel skills are dialed. And I am fully aware of what I am getting into with the kautz (likely ai3 which I am comfortable leading). So this is definitely not my 'first' time climbing.

Do you know of any TRs that go by way of trump park, I haven't seen any and would like to get some more beta on that approach?

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Hope I didn't sound like an ass in questioning your route choice, not my intention. Sounds like you've been getting out a lot since your posts this spring--that's great!

 

If you like rainier I'll have to just plug 'the book', by Mike Gauthier (Gator), previous lead climb ranger,

http://www.amazon.com/Mount-Rainier-Climbing-Guide-Edition/dp/0898869560

 

It has route info up the wazoo, routes overlayed on photographs, all the 'deets' you need. great book.

 

two TRs that start at Comet Falls TH. Take a look at a map, you'll see the trail up to van trump park, from there just follow least resistance, veering more towards wilson than kautz. I haven't done it but would guess based on the contours and such you'd hit the 'regular' path up around 8200-8600? Consider a call into the rangers as well/ask when you register.

 

http://www.ericsbasecamp.net/trips/Kautz/Kautz.htm

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=493589

 

 

 

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I went up last September in the hopes of colder temps than I got... was a slush fest and I bailed at the Turtle. Unless it's unseasonably cold, you're not gonna find AI3, you're gonna find 60 degree Glacier Cherry slushy without the cherry.

 

Definitely bring your own cherry syrup.

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Been meaning to make a trip report but haven't got around to it.

 

Climbed Kautz weekend of Aug, 23rd. Conditions were actually excellent and there was glacial ice. Probably WI 2+. Was taking screws well. Able to cross Nisqually but just barely. Crossed at about 7000 feet.

 

Hit by thunderstorm on Sunday at 13,500. Very serious. Had to ascend into thunderstorm. Remarkably did not get struck by lightning. Partner and I descended well wanded DC. Ditched pickets.

 

Was a great weekend except for the storm / complete whiteout and scarefest of the DC during electrical storms and potential for large corn avalanche above Ingraham. Route was awesome before all this.

Edited by abarlow

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Been meaning to make a trip report but haven't got around to it.

 

Climbed Kautz weekend of Aug, 23rd. Conditions were actually excellent and there was glacial ice. Probably WI 2+. Was taking screws well. Able to cross Nisqually but just barely. Crossed at about 7000 feet.

 

Hit by thunderstorm on Sunday at 13,500. Very serious. Had to ascend into thunderstorm. Remarkably did not get struck by lightning. Partner and I descended well wanded DC. Ditched pickets.

 

Was a great weekend except for the storm / complete whiteout and scarefest of the DC during electrical storms and potential for large corn avalanche above Ingraham. Route was awesome before all this.

 

Nice! Jelly

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Summited yesterday at aprox 12, couldn't have asked for better weather or conditions! Ice was super solid took picks and screws really well, van trump is the way to go the extra 1,700 was worth it after we saw the nisqually and fan on the way down. The ranger told us that lately it's about 50/50 whether parties take the nisqually or van trump, however the last ranger team took the van trump. We started at 8am on saturday from comet falls and were able to climb the technical section before sundown, camped at 12,500 slept in, then summited the next day!

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