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Seraphim

Whitehorse beta

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Anyone have any idea what conditions are like on Whitehorse mtn. this time of year? I know that hwy 930 is supposed to open this weekend, and I would love to get on this climb.

 

Some people say that it is generally to late to access the summit by now, because of moats.

 

Any info appreciated. Thanks!

 

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I also need WH beta. Back in the early 70s, my stepfather was the president of the Everett Mtnrs. He lived his later years in Darrington, and died this past winter. On the June 21 weekend,family is having his ashes taken to the top of Whitehorse, and I have the notion to meet the helicopter up high. It is my understanding that getting to the summit at that time of year is difficult, but what about just getting up the trial to High Pass? Any thoughts on routefinding that time of year? will I be fighting berry bushes the entire way? Any input is welcome.

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Lone tree pass route is certainly doable all summer. There is some tricky routefinding if the trail is covered in snow, but not a big deal if you pay attention. I've used a 30m Rhononee rope to rap from the summit, then smooth traveling.

 

I wouldn't touch the Whitehorse glacier route this time of year unless you love vertical brush thrashing on wet slab.

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Lone tree pass route is certainly doable all summer. There is some tricky routefinding if the trail is covered in snow, but not a big deal if you pay attention. I've used a 30m Rhononee rope to rap from the summit, then smooth traveling.

 

I wouldn't touch the Whitehorse glacier route this time of year unless you love vertical brush thrashing on wet slab.

 

Figured that. Sounds like a big pain in the A$$ right now

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Interesting on the Heli flight of ashes up Whitehorse. I wouldn't advertize that on the web unless you have the proper permits. It is in a wilderness area and the courts don't look highly on unauthorized flights (Green Mtn LO, eh?). I haven't done the route to high pass without snow, so I'm not sure how bad the schwack is later in the season.

 

My guess is that the summit should still be accessible, but there may be some moat shenanigans that will get worse as the season progresses. I have climbed it thru June most years without problems, but this seems like a below average year.

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Hey All,

 

Whitehorse can be done almost all year. The brush is thick this year as it's been a wet winter. There is also a weird and unstable snow pack this year that hasn't quite consolidated yet for the summer. The last obstacle is a steep snow field that narrows to a point as it nears the summit rock. You will have to make a step across a scary shrund about three feet wide and hundreds of feet deep that goes down behind said snow field. There was a 40 knot cold wind blowing from it when I did it.

Then you will rock climb low fifth class for 40 feet or so to the summit. No sweat right. Do start early as the parking lot is just above 500ft and the summit is 6,841. Add in the gain and loss you have to do on the south side after lone tree pass and you'll change about 13'000 feet of vertical(up and down), it makes for a great leg work out.... Anyone need a partner?

Eric

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You can't always just step across. I've had to rap into the moat, then climb out. Most folks don't want to deal with 5th class rock on Whitehorse, thus the convention that it is out of shape later in the season. When exactly that is, varies year to year.

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How about the alternate route Beckey mentions? "In late season it may be necessary to leave the finger for rocks to the left and traverse ledges on the E face around and up to the summit." Have you ever checked that out? Seems like Juan told me it was downsloping mid-fifth with limited opportunity for gear and bad potential consequences if a fall into the moat occurred.

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Interesting. No, I haven't tried that, but the east side of the summit is pretty steep if I remember right. But maybe you are supposed to wrap all the way around to the south side? Also, if it was a straightforward alternative, I wouldn't think Whitehorse would have the reputation for being out of shape early in the season.

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The East face ledge bypass on the summit pyramid is very easy and quite obvious once you are there. All 3rd class with a couple 4th class moves to connect ledges. The final short 4th class pitch is on the crest of the SE Ridge and is quite enjoyable and distinctly alpine. I belayed my dad up and down; no rappel necessary. Easy to solo if used to exposed terrain. Travel from Lone Tree to High Pass when snow free is not brushy; drop ~ 300' below Lone Tree and traverse benches to below High Pass. Makes for a long day but a great climb.

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Question: am planning to solo this - does the glacier traverse require a rope? Is it heavily crevassed? I know I may not be able to make it to the ultimate summit due to moat issues and I am fine with that but would like to know if there are any other dangers to be aware of. Thanks in advance

Edited by Chicagosky

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