kevbone Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 Noticed today that the first bolt on Stairway to Heaven has been chopped. This is a Jim route and one of the first to go up back in 2005. Chopping bolts is bad but chopping Jims bolts are even worse. This was a total pro job. You have to look closely to see where it was.... I have a good idea who did this. Anybody have any ideas? Quote
ivan Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 lame. don't think i've ever climbed that route w/ a rope but the intent as i recall was to have a good intro leader route - it's not like ozone doesn't have a plethora of bolts everywhere else... Quote
JosephH Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 JH? Not me, I only replace them. Hell, have only been to Ozone a half dozen times, the last in 2008/9 or so and don't have the slightest friggin' clue as to what's what over there let alone who did what - definitely not my cup of tea. Quote
pink Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 JH? Not me, I only replace them. - definitely not my cup of tea. not true, you added a bolt anchor to the middle of a pitch on "Summer Daze". Quote
kevbone Posted May 22, 2014 Author Posted May 22, 2014 Really lame to chop bolts without the permision of the FA. I know Jim had no knowledge of this. The route can still be climbed. But that is not the point. Quote
JosephH Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 JH? Not me, I only replace them. - definitely not my cup of tea. not true, you added a bolt anchor to the middle of a pitch on "Summer Daze". Not true, moved the existing anchor off the tree to the alcove immediately behind the trunk at the request of the Lisa Lantz, the WSP SW Resource Steward. There was an existing anchor there and it is still there, albeit on two bolts three inches behind the tree trunk. It's a net wash unless you're absolutely desperate for something to whine about. Quote
pink Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 JH? Not me, I only replace them. - definitely not my cup of tea. not true, you added a bolt anchor to the middle of a pitch on "Summer Daze". Not true, moved the existing anchor off the tree to the alcove immediately behind the trunk at the request of the Lisa Lantz, the WSP SW Resource Steward. There was an existing anchor there and it is still there, albeit on two bolts three inches behind the tree trunk. It's a net wash unless you're absolutely desperate for something to whine about. so "summer daze" which is a 95 feet is two 42 1/2 ft. pitches? oh shit my bad Quote
ivan Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 meh. there must be better things to fight about. i don't know of anybody other than jim n' wayne who's ever even climbed summer daze, though i hope to get aroudn to it someday, and free for sum had a pointless mid-pt anchor long before anyhow. chopping bolts at ozone is like handing out speeding tickets at the indy 500 at any rate. Quote
pink Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 Ivan, i heard it's really hard…. ur proly gonna have to do it in two days, most parties bivy at the fir tree mid route. GOOD LUCK Quote
ivan Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 currently building cheater-stick to clip mid-pt anchor from ground - tensions rising - my ego is collapsing - situation excellent, i attack soon! Quote
JosephH Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 so "summer daze" which is a 95 feet is two 42 1/2 ft. pitches? oh shit my bad I didn't put the anchor there, I simply moved it three inches off the tree. If it were up to me personally, about 60% of the anchors out there would disappear overnight and Beacon is a bit unusual with respect to all the fixed anchors compared to most multipitch crags. Quote
pink Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 so "summer daze" which is a 95 feet is two 42 1/2 ft. pitches? oh shit my bad I didn't put the anchor there, I simply moved it three inches off the tree. If it were up to me personally, about 60% of the anchors out there would disappear overnight and Beacon is a bit unusual with respect to all the fixed anchors compared to most multipitch crags. Quote
JosephH Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 Except the anchor had been there for years to the tune of four slings. As I said, at best an exercise in hurling desperately meaningless semantics. Had I removed the anchor you'd no doubt be bitching and moaning about that. Quote
pink Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 hey, i think 40 foot pitches are sweet…. more time to burn down the house plus that's more pitches out at beacon… i always wanted to slap an anchor in the middle of little wing. that would be two sweet pitches instead on just one Quote
JosephH Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 hey, i think 40 foot pitches are sweet…. more time to burn down the house plus that's more pitches out at beacon… i always wanted to slap an anchor in the middle of little wing. that would be two sweet pitches instead on just one Well, yet again, I didn't put the anchor there. And like the other "40 foot" anchor mentioned up thread, it's not hard to guess that this one was created for the same reason. You're certainly welcome to continue to argue that anchors on trees aren't really anchors but, sadly, it's a distinction without distinction. Or, you could just chop it (way ok by me anyway), and then we could see how long it takes for new [non-anchor] slings to show up on the tree. Then again, what would the place be without those huge crocodile tears over the things that really, really matter. Carry on... As for chopping a bolt at Ozone, what on earth would be the point? It would be about as meaningful as chopping a bolt in Boulder Canyon. Quote
denalidave Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 you bitches OWN the internutz! Another gripping season of "How the Bacon Crumbles"... Quote
pink Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 you bitches OWN the internutz! Another gripping season of "How the Bacon Crumbles"... Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted May 24, 2014 Posted May 24, 2014 Maybe instead of putting in a bolt anchor 45 feet up next to a tree, which is against all the long held traditions at Beacon Rock, you simply cut the slings like you've been doing over on the NW face? Seems like it would make a little more sense. Lisa Lantz is a big advocate of bolting Beacon Rock against the wishes of the climbing community? Wow, that's interesting. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.