Weather Backup Day(s)?

[JonW2]

A buddy and I are traveling out to WA to climb the N. Ridge of Baker in early July and we're starting to look into flights. We know July has the best weather, but given we're traveling from CO, how backup days would be safe? We're thinking 1 or 2.

 

Our current thinking is:

Day 1 - fly & drive

Day 2 - Hike to camp

Day 3 - summit and back to car

Day 4 - backup

Day 5 - fly home

 

I realize Baker can be done in a single car to car push, if need be. But should we add an additional backup day to safe?

 

Also, if the weather cooperates, anyone have fun suggestions for Day 4? We could bring the rock rack and climb up to 5.8-5.9 in the alpine. Would something on the Liberty Bell be worth the drive from the north side of Baker?

 

Thanks!

[alpine et]

Liberty bell is a classic. On the weekends it'll be crowded. On weekdays you still are likely to see other people if weather is good.

 

You could do a route on Shuksan as a closer alternative.

 

If rock is sounding good, though, also consider Burgundy Spire... it has a 5.8 route up it. Longer approach than Liberty Bell, but more interesting climbing and less crowded. Could do the linkup with Pisano Pinnacle to Burgundy Spire if you're efficient...

 

 

When I climbed the N. Ridge we didn't set any speed records for sure, but were bummed to not have planned to be able to crash at camp after the climb. Walking out in the dark after the early start was rough...

[genepires]

another option for the N ridge baker plan, do it in 2 days but do it as a cross over. go with light overnight packs. Day 1 hike in and cross the glacier to the ridge in the daylight (nice for the complicated glacier travel) and climb up the ridge to some bivy spots about a rope length or two below the ice wall. next morning, climb up down and out to the car. solid forecast required.

 

this would make your summit day easier and you won't be so tired afterwards so that you may actually climb something on your day 4.

 

west face of south early winter spires is my favorite line on the west side if the spires. late start is OK.

 

east side of spires, east buttress of south early winter spire. Longer day and earlier start required. stuff harder than 5.9 can be aided.

[matt_warfield]

Leaving CO to find rock climbing is a travesty. CO has more rock of all types than a human can comprehend. If you want alpine rock go to RMNP and save the flight cost for beer. A WA trip should focus on alpine as has been suggested. It is our claim to fame. Plus CO and WA have something else in common that grows and is legal.

 

If you go to WA buy one of the Select Guides and it will save some time. A lot of time.

Edited April 7, 2014 by matt_warfield

[JonW2]

Leaving CO to find rock climbing is a travesty.

 

Thanks, Matt. I agree 100% and we routinely climb rock in RMNP.

 

We're traveling to WA to hit up the N Ridge of Baker and we're trying to determine how many weather backup days we need. My interest in potential rock routes was merely to fill in unused weather days.

[curtveld]

Also, if the weather cooperates, anyone have fun suggestions for Day 4? We could bring the rock rack and climb up to 5.8-5.9 in the alpine. Would something on the Liberty Bell be worth the drive from the north side of Baker?

Actually Squamish is closer to Baker than Liberty Bell. Not sure if it can compare to Colorado, but some folks enjoy it.