Mt. Hood in May

[fdct]

Hi all,

 

I'm planning a trip up Mt. Hood in May with some folks. We've been doing our homework, but I was wondering if anyone on this forum has any advice for climbing around that time of year or good resources to check out. For example, we'll all obviously be sporting ice axes, crampons, etc. but should we be planning to rope in as well? I've heard some people say it's a good idea, and others say it's complete overkill. We'll be going up the Southside route; any advice on the route or things to be aware of that might not be obvious would be great. Thanks!

[mthorman]

As far as a rope is concerned that is sometimes a matter of preference. Some people aren't comfortable without a rope on the last steep section. One thing to keep in mind if you are using a rope is snow conditions. I have been on mountains where it was too ice to self arrest. So if you fell you would just pull the rest of the whole team off too. At that point it might be best to turn around, but for sure I would say no on a rope. Better for one person to fall then one person to drag the entire rope team down. There have been instances in the past of falling rope teams tangling up with teams below them and dragging everyone down into the sulfur holes on Mt. Hood.

 

If I were to climb the south side of Mt. Hood I won't take a rope personally. But then again that is personal preference. I am sure there will be others with difference views.

 

Good luck with your climb. Make sure you get a good weather day and practice your self arrest before you go!

[ivan]

what he said - much more pleasant experience not to haul up all the extra weight - bring a 2nd tool and you'll feel like a hero both going up and down

[ScaredSilly]

Plan for any weather condition. Know how to get from the upper part of the hill back to the lift. That bring a map and compass (or GPS).

 

As for a rope - it depends on the ability of your group. Last April having a rope would was nice for the summit ridge as the wind was ripping. People were actually protecting the summit ridge.

[fdct]

Thanks for the advice. We're also trying to decide if we should camp for a night on the mountain, mostly just because we have all this nice cold weather camping gear and don't get to use it enough. Any thoughts on that? Good idea? Bad idea? Stupid idea?

[ivan]

illumination gap is a stellar place to camp n' spend a day or two on the south side, as is the end of the cooper spur on the north side

[ScaredSilly]

I like to camp at Illumination Saddle. Can be a bit windy but great views. Most people go for just one night I like spending a couple and pluck off a couple routes. Last time we did Leutholds then Sandy Glacier Headwall. For more southerly routes you can go up West Crater Rim and then come down as well.