Mount Rainier, 3 days with night on summit.

[schroden]

Still planning on this climb, with hopes for a night on the summit. Could add a couple more climbers, if anyone is free and interested, send me your contact info.

 

Have been reviewing route beta, and am increasingly jealous of all the folks just a couple hours from rainier! A bit saddened that many routes are not available or 'safe' late in August. Depending on the conditions, the choices may be down to Ingraham Direct/Disappointment Cleaver, Emmons/Winthrop Glaciers, or Kautz Glacier. Each route get to the summit, which is the main goal, but I prefer less crowded or congested route, at least for the ascent. Here's hoping for lots more snow, and a late, slow melt, to allow more route options!

[Big Mitch]

In a typical snow year, the Ingraham Dirct will be out by end of June, if not earlier.

 

The Kautz has a ice wall, which is no place for a newbie. If you climb vertical ice, then the Kautz Ice Wall will be peanuts.

 

So your choices will likely be the DC and the Emmons .

[Big Mitch]

For the Kautz Ice Wall, your team should be dialed in with their multi-pitch ice climbing technique before you attempt this route.

[mountainsandsound]

Don't write off the Emmons. Especially if you can swing mid week. It isn't always crowded and it is a cool route with a good view of Tahoma peak and some outrageous glacier scenery.

[schroden]

Big Mitch-- Sage advice. As the group comes together we will have to see what the least common denominator is. It is clear that roped protection is necessary for the Kautz, so we will have to have the skills if we go that way.

 

Allan

[CaleHoopes]

I agree. In August you could actually run into some good ice steps there - probably won't need a lot of traction placements, but you should know how to pitch it out. Additionally, you will need to rap down onto the ice chute, then scramble out. There's a little exposure there and the objective danger from the ice cliff is extreme. Don't dawdle there - icefall could be very dangerous there.

[schroden]

So a quick review of the late August options, with potentially few other options dependent upon snow pack, cool late summer, etc.:

 

Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons/Winthrop Glaciers, each option having camps and some 'crowds'. Both options are good, popular routes.

 

Kautz Glacier, which will require additional skills of quick rappel/belay into ice chute, and steep ice with belay/running belay,up the chute.

 

 

[Big Mitch]

Correct.

 

A lot fewer people on the Emmons, but will take an extra day due to the typical two-day hike up from White River to Camp Schuman.

 

However, I suggest the DC for an internet-recruited team.

 

Due to the high traffic by guided teams on the DC, all of the major hazards will be well known and fixed lines, protection, and/or ladders will be in place.

[Big Mitch]

The Kautz can also be done with an up-and-over approach where you ascend the Kautz Glacier to the summit and descend down the DC to Camp Muir.

 

However, you have to carry your gear to the summit so you should have your light weight kit down solid.

[schroden]

 

Looking like the consensus is either the DC or Emmons, though the Kautz sure looks intriguing!

 

Since 'better safe then sorry' allows for future adventures, will likely hold off on the Kautz (unless the group pulls that way)

[schroden]

We are still planning the climb for August. One climber has pulled out due to schedule conflicts, so if there is a hearty soul looking for a summit adventure, either respond here or send a PM. Exact route depends on conditions, group skills, and consensus.

[schroden]

Quick review of plans. Climb starts Monday August 25th, with hopes for night on summit either Tuesday or Wednesday. If needed, could spend Thursday night on summit with early quick descent Friday. Planing Emmons/Winthrop climb, subject to revision if conditions warrant. Still have room for at least 1 more climber! So if interested, let me know.

[schroden]

So last week we added a climber, and this week one pulled out (life/location change). Still have a end of the rope free....

[schroden]

Still have room for more over-night on the summit adventure climbers. Respond here or send a PM.

[schroden]

Hey! The climb happened and you can see the trip report!

 

For those interested, it was not nearly as 'bad' as some suggested, and even more enjoyable then I hoped.

 

Plan to do another night or 2 on the top again!