schroden

Hello all "seasoned" climbers. I may have a climbing window sometime this summer, 2023. Just starting to look at summer vacation options, and may be able to fit a good climb in the mix. I am from out of state, so once dates are set, there is little poential to change. That being said, I like a 5 day climbing window. Day one climb to camp (Muir, Sherman, whatever). Day 2 to the summit with goal to spend at least 1 night on summit (in summit crater). Day 3 explore the summit zone, including ice caves, west crater, etc. Day4 descend. Day 5 is there if weather gets in the way, or we chose to descend over 2 days, or we just get off mountain a day early. I am not set on climbing Rainier. Would entertain shorter climb, different peak. Baker maybe? Have been up Adams twice. Allan.

Hey. Good to hear there are “middle aged” climbers out there! My Seattle plans are set, and airline tickets purchased. Should be available August 9-13, but depends on routes and conditions, of course! Would be interested in most anything ‘reasonable’. Haven’t been up Baker or Olympus yet, and would certainly like more time on Rainier. Would even entertain short climbs, just to get outside! I know August can have issues with route deterioration, but my first summit of Rainier was in August, and it was still climbable. Post here if anything develops, or can PM me as well.

Hello. I could consider a climb. Not sure on timeline this year, but should figure it out soon. Have been up Rainier 3 times, and slept on the summit crater twice. Still dream of spending 2 nights up top, and exploring the ice caves and each prominence on the day between. If not his year, maybe next. Was 49 when summited Rainer the first time 50 the second, so am in the over 50 crowd for sure! Allan

Hey. Only there for a week. Guess I'll go for a hike instead and try for a June climb next year.... Allan

Will be in the area August 27-31. Hoping for a climb up Rainier or maybe Baker. Have been up Rainier 3 times, and spent a night on the summit on 2 of the climbs. Though I enjoy time at the top, a straightforward climb is fine. Familiar with the Emmons Winthrop side, and came down the DC cattle track one. Open to discussing routes and timeframe. I am aware this is late in the season, and that the routes get challenging as the crevasses open up. Lots of end runs and sketchy crossings. Reply here of PM me. Allan

Summit camp is great! A bit of work to get there, but once on the top, it is a full nights sleep BEFORE you have to descend. Remember that getting to the summit is only half the journey. The extra weight in the backpack really doesn't make much difference on the way down either. Allan.

I may be free later in the climbing season, and would like the full adventure again. Have been up the Emmons 3 times, once descending the DC. Rather avoid the DC congestion. The Kautz and Tahoma interest me. Of course, I really like the summit area of Mount Rainier, and would love to spend another night, or 2, up there, but planning that is an adventure unto itself. Allan

Trip: Mt Rainier - Emmon/Winthrop Trip Date: 06/19/2017 Trip Report: Trip: Mt Rainier - Emmons Winthrop Date: 6/19/2017 Trip Report: Four of us started out Monday June 19th, after meeting at the White River Ranger station to register the climb, and a brief time spent greeting each other and packing up the gear. We planed to climb as 2 teams of 2, using 2 35m ropes, staying close together. We would link up into 1 team if conditions warranted. I was on one rope with "Bob", and Kyle Webster on the other with Collin Ray. The hike up the glacier basin was fine, fair and warm, with good views of the mountain. More snow remained, both on the trail and in the basin, then the the last time I came this way, in June 2015. We put on gaiters at the bottom of the Interglacier, but remained unroped, and no need for crampons as the snow was quite soft. The few small crevasses were easy to avoid. We roped up at Camp Curtis for the brief descent onto the Emmons glacier, and the hike up and around the crevasses to Camp Sherman. "Bob" complained of not feeling well, wondering it it was the altitude. He climbed strong all day, so we encouraged him to rest, drink fluids, eat some and see how he recovered overnight. Spent a while digging out tent platforms, melting snow and cooking up supper. Was quite windy there, and we had decided to use Tuesday as a rest day, so no hurry to settle in to bed. There were a few other climbers there, as well as an RMI climbing group. Other then the wind, was a very pleasant evening. Tuesday broke clear, cool and windy. We watched as other climbing teams higher on the mountain turned back and descended back to camp. Beta from them was that the upper mountain was very windy, and quite icy. The forecast for Wednesday was also for high winds, but better for Thursday. The rangers were getting supplies flown in by helicopter, and we spent the morning watching loads of supplies and building materials land near the stone hut. As "Bob" was suffering from altitude sickness, even with the rest day, discussions about safe climbing options ensued. The "Bob" didn't want to risk climbing higher and volunteered to head back down the mountain. The forecast for Wednesday was still for high winds and cold temps (icy!), but less wind and a bit warmer Thursday. We discussed and reluctantly agreed that a Thursday climb would be better and safer the trying the climb on Wednesday. We would split the team Wednesday morning, sending "Bob" back down and shoe horn the remaining three of us into Kyle's tent. Wednesday, Collin and I helped pack up "Bob", roped up and saw him safely back across the Emmons, and onto the Interglacier. He had a safe descent and hike back to his car. He started to feel well as soon as he was down. On our return, Collin and I lingered a while at a nice crevasse. We practiced setting snow pickets and dead-man anchors, Z pulley setup, and took turns belaying each other down into the crevasse, and prussic climbing the rope back up. Great fun, and cool pictures as well! Kyle spent the time resetting camp and sorting out supplies. Being down one climber, we were able to stow some of the excess gear. RMI climbing group of 12 guys were all back to camp by 7:00am. Beta again was windy and icy. Thursday we got up with the sun and packed up camp. Got off to a slow start, but made good progress up the corridor. We roped up with Collin in the lead, Kyle as anchor, and I took the middle slot. I lead enough on the previous climbs, and was just happy to be able to climb! Once on the upper mountain, conditions became icy and windy, but the wind was more of a nuisance rather then a safety issue. As the slope became icy and steep, with dangerous run-out, we climbed with a running belay, which was a bit slower. When we approached the large overhanging crevasses, near 13500 feet, we discussed heading directly up, to the left of the overhanging crevasses, but that would have meant more running belay. We decided to pass toward the north onto the upper Winthrop glacier, below the large crevasses. This would bring us to the saddle between Liberty ridge and the summit. Had a bit of excitement crossing the last crevasse. Collin lead across the wide snow bridge spanning the two narrow crevasses, and footing was fine. I crossed, and felt it was fine, but did hear and feel a faint crack as I crossed, so I quickened my step. Unbeknown to me, a large block broke loose and fell away as I stepped across. Kyle quickly followed, and crosses a few feet to the side. We proceeded to the saddle and the solid slopes to the summit. Did find the sun cups a bit annoying, as the icy points would catch the rope repeatedly. The summit was cold and windy, so we did not linger long. We moved down into the crater a bit, choosing to dig a new tent platform and wind wall near the north rim, close to where the D.C. climbers ascend the crater rim. Collin stayed busy melting snow and prepping hot beverages, and Kyle and I cut snow blocks, built a wind wall and nice level platform. The wind was much less in the crater, though it tended to shift about more. As sundown approached, we took the short walk back up to the summit proper to watch the sunset. The skies were clear and we could see all of the Olympics, Puget sound and Cascade peaks far off the the north, east, and south. The winds at the summit were strong and cold. We needed to lean into the wind, and protect exposed skin from the wind chill. Sunset was as good as I remembered, and worth the climb! We had a nice sleep, and were up in time to watch the magnificent sunrise. We lingered in camp a bit, watching the climbers cross the crater from the D.C. route, enjoyed a hot breakfast, and packed up our gear. Collin observed that many of the DC climbers walked like zombies, with complaints of fatigue, glazed eyes, and unsteady gait. We all agreed that not having to climb much of the night made for a much more enjoyable summit experience. Decided to try the direct route down from the NE crater rim, as there were a few climbers who came and went that way on their way to the summit. Conditions continued icy and windy on decent, with only the points of the crampons biting in, and no real boot tracks to follow. Eventually joined up with the boot track down slope from the overhanging crevasses, and made our way down. Below 12000 feet, things warmed up and conditions slowly softened, becoming mushy before we returned to Camp Sherman. At Camp Sherman, we stopped to use the toilet, melt up some water and rest a bit. Picked up the gear we had stowed and headed on down the Emmons. We unroped on the Interglacier, and enjoyed a good bit of glissading, and nice soft plunge stepping down through glacier basin. Made good time back to the car, descending 10,000+ feet over ~9 miles in 1 day, with full packs on. Overall, I am pleased with the climb. We overcame issues with a climber having AMS, windy and icy conditions, and not only made the summit, but spent a night there and had nice clear conditions to watch the sunset and sunrise. I still would like to have a climb that allowed for time to explore the summit zone and the ice caves. If you are interested in organizing or participating in a this type of climb, feel free to PM me. Allan Schroden Gear Notes: Standard Alpine gear. Approach Notes: Emmons/Winthrop from White River campground

FYI: Trip report (finally!) posted. Spent too much time working and vacationing, including a week climbing in Colorado. Having trouble uploading pictures, so may add then later. 3rd successful climb, with 1 night on summit for 2 of the 3 climbs. If anyone is interested in participating or organizing a climb that would incorporate the option of night(s) on summit and or time to explore the upper mountain, craters, ice caves, etc. Feel free to PM me or reply here. Hoping to climb Mt Rainier again in 2018!

Trip: Mt Rainier - Emmons Winthrop Date: 6/19/2017 Trip Report: Four of us started out Monday June 19th, after meeting at the White River Ranger station to register the climb, and a brief time spent greeting each other and packing up the gear. We planed to climb as 2 teams of 2, using 2 35m ropes. staying close together. We would link up into 1 team if conditions warranted. I was on one rope with “Bob”, and Kyle Webster on the other with Collin Ray. The hike up the glacier basin was fine, fair and warm, with good views of the mountain. More snow remained, both on the trail and in the basin, then the the last time I came this way, in June 2015. We put on gaiters at the bottom of the Interglacier, but remained unroped, and no need for crampons as the snow was quite soft. The few small crevasses were easy to avoid. We roped up at Camp Curtis for the brief descent onto the Emmons glacier, and the hike up and around the crevasses to Camp Sherman. “Bob” complained of not feeling well, wondering it it was the altitude. He climbed strong all day, so we encouraged him to rest, drink fluids, eat some and see how he recovered overnight. Spent a while digging out tent platforms, melting snow and cooking up supper. Was quite windy there, and we had decided to use Tuesday as a rest day, so no hurry to settle in to bed. There were a few other climbers there, as well as an RMI climbing group. Other then the wind, was a very pleasant evening. Tuesday broke clear, cool and windy. We watched as other climbing teams higher on the mountain turned back and descended back to camp. Beta from them was that the upper mountain was very windy, and quite icy. The forecast for Wednesday was also for high winds, but better for Thursday. The rangers were getting supplies flown in by helicopter, and we spent the morning watching loads of supplies and building materials land near the stone hut. As “Bob” was suffering from altitude sickness, even with the rest day, discussions about safe climbing options ensued. The “Bob” didn’t want to risk climbing higher and volunteered to head back down the mountain. The forecast for Wednesday was still for high winds and cold temps (icy!), but less wind and a bit warmer Thursday. We discussed and reluctantly agreed that a Thursday climb would be better and safer the trying the climb on Wednesday. We would split the team Wednesday morning, sending “Bob” back down and shoe horn the remaining three of us into Kyle’s tent. Wednesday, Collin and I helped pack up “Bob”, roped up and saw him safely back across the Emmons, and onto the Interglacier. He had a safe descent and hike back to his car. He started to feel well as soon as he was down. On our return, Collin and I lingered a while at a nice crevasse. We practiced setting snow pickets and dead-man anchors, Z pulley setup, and took turns belaying each other down into the crevasse, and prussic climbing the rope back up. Great fun, and cool pictures as well! Kyle spent the time resetting camp and sorting out supplies. Being down one climber, we were able to stow some of the excess gear. Thursday we got up with the sun and packed up camp. Got off to a slow start, but made good progress up the corridor. We roped up with Collin in the lead, Kyle as anchor, and I took the middle slot. I lead enough on the previous climbs, and was just happy to be able to climb! Once on the upper mountain, conditions became icy and windy, but the wind was more of a nuisance rather then a safety issue. As the slope became icy and steep, with dangerous run-out, we climbed with a running belay, which was a bit slower. When we approached the large overhanging crevasses, near 13500 feet, we discussed heading directly up, to the left of the overhanging crevasses, but that would have meant more running belay. We decided to pass toward the north onto the upper Winthrop glacier, below the large crevasses. This would bring us to the saddle between Liberty ridge and the summit. Had a bit of excitement crossing the last crevasse. Collin lead across the wide snow bridge spanning the two narrow crevasses, and footing was fine. I crossed, and felt it was fine, but did hear and feel a faint crack as I crossed, so I quickened my step. Unbeknown to me, a large block broke loose and fell away as I stepped across. Kyle quickly followed, and crosses a few feet to the side. We proceeded to the saddle and the solid slopes to the summit. Did find the sun cups a bit annoying, as the icy points would catch the rope repeatedly. The summit was cold and windy, so we did not linger long. We moved down into the crater a bit, choosing to dig a new tent platform and wind wall near the north rim, close to where the D.C. climbers ascend the crater rim. Collin stayed busy melting snow and prepping hot beverages, and Kyle and I cut snow blocks, built a wind wall and nice level platform. The wind was much less in the crater, though it tended to shift about more. As sundown approached, we took the short walk back up to the summit proper to watch the sunset. The skies were clear and we could see all of the Olympics, Puget sound and Cascade peaks far off the the north, east, and south. The winds at the summit were strong and cold. We needed to lean into the wind, and protect exposed skin from the wind chill. Sunset was as good as I remembered, and worth the climb! We had a nice sleep, and were up in time to watch the magnificent sunrise. We lingered in camp a bit, watching the climbers cross the crater from the D.C. route, enjoyed a hot breakfast, and packed up our gear. Collin observed that many of the DC climbers walked like zombies, with complaints of fatigue, glazed eyes, and unsteady gait. We all agreed that not having to climb much of the night made for a much more enjoyable summit experience. Decided to try the direct route down from the NE crater rim, as there were a few climbers who came and went that way on their way to the summit. Conditions continued icy and windy on decent, with only the points of the crampons biting in, and no real boot tracks to follow. Eventually joined up with the boot track below the overhanging crevasses, and made our way down. Below 12000 feet, things warmed up and conditions slowly softened, becoming mushy before we returned to Camp Sherman. At Camp Sherman, we stopped to use the toilet, melt up some water and rest a bit. Picked up the gear we had stowed and headed on down the Emmons. We unroped on the Interglacier, and enjoyed a good bit of glissading, and nice soft plunge stepping down through glacier basin. Made good time back to the car, descending 10,000+ feet over ~9 miles in 1 day, with full packs on. Overall, I am pleased with the climb. We overcame issues with a climber having AMS, windy and icy conditions, and not only made the summit, but spent a night there and had nice clear conditions to watch the sunset and sunrise. I still would like to have a climb that allowed for time to explore the summit zone and the ice caves. If you are interested in organizing or participating in a this type of climb, feel free to PM me. Allan Schroden

Hello UPDATE: The climb did happen. Full trip report in the works. In brief, made camp Sherman Monday 6/19. Windy conditions and icy upper mountain, so opted for rest day Tuesday, and again Wednesday. Wind died down for Thursday' so climbed up to the summit, camping in the crater near the north rim. Awesome but windy sunset, and beautiful sunrise. Had to beat it off the mountain on Friday, so still not enough to explore time, but still a success. IF YOU AR INTERESTED IN THIS TYPE OF CLIMB, I would love to participate. Just PM me. I will be in the Seattle area again next summer. Allan Schroden

Hey! Quick update: 5 weeks to the climb, and we are at 5 climbers for this trip. 1 more and we will be on 2 rope teams. Plenty or space at the summit crater camp for many more! Allan

Hey When I converted my universal life (think whole life merged with investment options, paid monthly like term) to whole life paid up policy, I was asked if I did any mountain climbing in the past year. Well, sadly, it had been about 56 weeks since my last climb, so I could honestly say no. Would have been a different story if I lived closer to the mountains!

Hey! we ate at the 2 months to the big climb. Time to start getting things locked in, but also time to add a second rope team! Already dreaming about the summit zone features to explore: Ice Caves, west crater, Liberty Cap, Point success, East crater rim, sunrise and sunset x2...

Also, route open for discussion. Prefer to avoid the D.C. cattle track, and like the Emmons/Winthrop route, but Kautz or other routes diascussable.

Time to lock in the dates. Looking at June 19-23 OR June 14-19, or various options between. Have a core group developing, but need to decide dates and add climbers.

Looking like this will be a good snow year, so that makes for more enjoyable summer climbing conditions. Still in the early planning stages. Let me know if you want to get on board early.

Quick update: have 3-4 interested climbers. Plenty of room for more, as there are 30+ 'campsites' reserve-able in the summit crater! Also think 2 rope teams would make the climb safer and allow more flexibility for activities in the summit zone, and even rate of climb.

Planning another multi-day Mount Rainier climb, with plans for camping 2 nights on the summit (summit crater). Tentative dates June 19-23, planning 1 day to get to camp, 1 day to get to summit, 1 full day exploring summit areas, 1 day to get down, and 1 day to allow for weather delays, or to split the decent into 2 days. Another way of looking at is 1 night half way up, 2 nights at top, and 1 night half way down. If things go great, we can always come home a day early. I like the Emmons/Winthrop from Sunrise entrance much better then the DC route. Would entertain Kautz or other route, depending on what the skill set is. Would really like to succeed at having the time in the summit zone. Spent 1 night in summit crater in 2014, which was great! The views of the sunset and surrounding landscape are worth the climb! Still want to touch all 3 high points, walk the crater rim, check out the west crater, and of course ice caves! Understand that conditions can get sketchy at the top, but the crater is a bit protected, tent pads are dug in some, and the ice caves are always protected! Allan

What is the price for the crampons shipped to Minnesota? Allan

Hello Interested in a couple of those ice screws. Need to ship to Minnesota, or we will be in Seattle end of the week... Allan

Hello Interested in a couple of those ice screws. Need to ship to Minnesota, or we will be in Seattle end of the week... Allan

Going to hang out in the Tetons June ~15-18~, and thinking that Grand Teton looks Grand! Anyone heading dowm that way, about that time? Need a couple friends to rope up with. Allan

I would be interested in an BD 65cm ice axe, 4 BD screwgate rocklock biners, 6 wire gate biners, ATC-XP, but gotta make a big price break.

Trip: Mount Rainier - Emmons Galcier Date: 6/15/2015 Trip Report: A brief trip report.: Alvin, Simon, Theodore, 3 anonymous climbers, planning to carry their packs to the summit to camp there, for an overnight adventure. On Monday June 15th, we began our climb from the White River Camp ground. Made our way up to the Inter Glacier, applied crampons, and climbed on up the Inter Glacier to Camp Curtis, on firm packed snow, with the occasional crevasse visible and easily avoided. Hit the ridge a bit high/west, and had brief detour east before roping up to descend onto the Emmons glacier. Navigated up the Emmons glacier to camp Shurman, and made camp on the glacier. After melting snow and eating supper, we settled in for a good sleep. We were planning to spend 2 nights on/near the summit, so packed up the full camp, and with loaded packs, got moving about twilight. Since we were planning to camp on the summit, no need for alpine start, as there would be no early descent. Simon, one of the guys, wasn't feeling well, struggling with exertion and nausea, and eventually vomiting. Looked like AMS, even though Simon was well trained, well conditioned, young, and never had any altitude issues before. We pushed on, but it became apparent that this was not resolving, in spite of rest breaks, and trying food and/or fluids. At 12,000 feet we regrouped. Alvin suggested a high bivy, but that entails finding a level or gentle slope, or vigorous tent pad digging. Also, no guarantee that Simon's AMS would resolve. Theodore suggested stripping the excess gear from Alvin and Theodore's packs, loading up Simon's essentials on their packs, and stowing Simon's pack. Then make for a night on the summit, picking everything up the next day on the way down. Simon didn't like the idea of stowing a pack, and again, the AMS may not resolve. We decided to descend, climbing back down the route. Simon continued with nausea for much of the down-climb, though started to feel better. Had a crevasse incident, with the middle climber, Simon, falling on a sketchy snow bridge crossing. Alvin was leading, and had placed a picket set as running belay, plus Alvin's boot axe belay, kept Simon from sliding far. Theodore backed up the picket and held the belay. Alvin secured and backed up the boot/axe, and using the rescue coil, retrieved Simon's pack. Simon was then able to scramble 8 feet up onto the snow bridge, with no need for Z-pulley rescue. Stopped at Emmons Flats to camp in peace and quiet, where there were 3 nice tent pads dug out, plus recessed latrine spot (to be used with Blue Bags, of course). After a good rest, and significant food intake, we were all feeling revived. Discussed options, and we all agreed that, if at 2 am Simon was feeling OK, he would stay the day in camp at Emmons Flats. Alvin and Theodore would try to summit with light packs, following the IMG guided group (whom it was apparent were planning to summit), and return to camp. Alvin and Theodore stripped down the packs, and boiled up plenty of water, before heading to bed. Wednesday AM (Tuesday Night?) Alvin and Theodore were up at 2am. Simon was feeling fine, with no nausea or ill feeling, and tolerating food and fluids well. Alvin and Theodore roped up, and following well behind the IMG group, climbed on up. We achieved summit in 5 1/2 hours. Snow was more firm, with temps below freezing, and a brisk NW wind. Had a nice rest, heated our freezing water on a fumarole, took nice summit pictures, and Theodore commented "It is so nice up here, I just don't understand why people don't camp up here". We then headed back to Emmons Flats, and Simon, without incident. Snow was soft below 12000 feet, and sloppy lower down. Back to camp in 4 1/2 hours, in time for a nap, and quiet, restful, beautiful evening. Watched the activity below at Camp Shurman, including a bit of helicopter viewing, as the rangers were practicing a helicopter drop onto the top ridge of Steamboat Prow. Simon was feeling fine, and had spent the day with his iPhone (and back-up battery pack) and 32x digital camera, watching the climbers and enjoying the scenery. Thursday AM, got up with the sun, and headed back to the car. A quick 'dump' stop at Camp Shurman, to lighten the load, was appreciated! A bit of glisadding on the Inter Glacier was fun, as well. Hope to try again for 2 nights on the summit, as all 3 of us feel it is worth the effort. I would climb with them again. Allan "Alvin" Schroden