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jspitzer

[TR] Canyonlands National Park: Moses - Primrose Dihedrals 9/28/2013

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Trip: Canyonlands National Park: Moses - Primrose Dihedrals

 

Date: 9/28/2013

 

Trip Report:

Rachel and I got lucky and climbed Primrose Dihedrals on the Moses before the Government shutdown. Hopefully the National Parks will open again soon as this tower is not to be missed.

 

Moses_overview.jpg

 

Road Condition: The road up Taylor Canyon is in good condition and I was able to drive my Subaru up the whole way to the trailhead.

 

Moses-3.jpg

 

Route: Great sustained steep desert climbing on this tower. There is lots of beta out there online. All the bolts on the "Ear" pitch are in place and good condition.

 

P1: Climb an inverted V slot (5.11+) to a 2 bolt belay at about the level of the notch to the east. or climb down a few feet (but not more) and then up onto an exposed ledge which leads around the corner to the west. Follow this ledge to the belay bolts (5.8).

 

P2: Work up to the left edge of a roof, and fire up a beautiful finger crack to a roof . Continue up via liebacks and steep jamming

 

P3: This pitch is very short and actually starts about 10' below the previous belay. Downclimb from the belay). From here, stem and hand traverse left to a thin crack, and climb this (5.10-) for only about 30' to a huge sloping ledge with 3 bolts. This ledge is only a little bit higher than the previous belay. From here the upper section of the route is visible and awe inspiring.

 

P4: Follow a straight in crack to a pod, then up a right facing dihedral (5.10 hands and then fist) to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch looks tough from below, but a convenient foothold off to the right at one roof makes it easier than one might think. Awesome Pitch!

 

P5: Continue up a weird 5.9 crack to the base of the ear (large cam may be useful), optional hanging belay here. Lieback or offwidth the ear (5.11+), using 6 bolts to the right of the corner. After the last bolt you used to have to free climb 15-20' to the top of the ear. The crack here is over 6", but halfway up this section look for a smaller crack inside that offers some protection.

 

Moses-5.jpg

 

P6: Chimney behind a large flake and head straight up (5.8) to a 2 bolt belay. Alternatively, you can follow 1 or 2 bolts above the belay (5.10 face).

 

P7: This is the same as the last pitch on the Dunn Route. Face climb past 2 bolts to the top.

 

Moses-2.jpgMoses-4.jpgMoses4.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

2 60m ropes for rappelling Pale Fire

 

Cams:

1 blue TCU

1 yellow TCU

1 black FCU

Black Diamond cams

2- 0.4

3- 0.5

3- 0.75

3- #1

2-#2

3-#3

set of nuts (useful on pitch 5)

14 draws/slings

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

Drive up Taylor Canyon Road

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Thanks for posting an inspiring TR! That's the best part of this site.

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