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[TR] Canyonlands National Park: Moses - Primrose Dihedrals 9/28/2013

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Trip: Canyonlands National Park: Moses - Primrose Dihedrals


Date: 9/28/2013


Trip Report:

Rachel and I got lucky and climbed Primrose Dihedrals on the Moses before the Government shutdown. Hopefully the National Parks will open again soon as this tower is not to be missed.




Road Condition: The road up Taylor Canyon is in good condition and I was able to drive my Subaru up the whole way to the trailhead.




Route: Great sustained steep desert climbing on this tower. There is lots of beta out there online. All the bolts on the "Ear" pitch are in place and good condition.


P1: Climb an inverted V slot (5.11+) to a 2 bolt belay at about the level of the notch to the east. or climb down a few feet (but not more) and then up onto an exposed ledge which leads around the corner to the west. Follow this ledge to the belay bolts (5.8).


P2: Work up to the left edge of a roof, and fire up a beautiful finger crack to a roof . Continue up via liebacks and steep jamming


P3: This pitch is very short and actually starts about 10' below the previous belay. Downclimb from the belay). From here, stem and hand traverse left to a thin crack, and climb this (5.10-) for only about 30' to a huge sloping ledge with 3 bolts. This ledge is only a little bit higher than the previous belay. From here the upper section of the route is visible and awe inspiring.


P4: Follow a straight in crack to a pod, then up a right facing dihedral (5.10 hands and then fist) to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch looks tough from below, but a convenient foothold off to the right at one roof makes it easier than one might think. Awesome Pitch!


P5: Continue up a weird 5.9 crack to the base of the ear (large cam may be useful), optional hanging belay here. Lieback or offwidth the ear (5.11+), using 6 bolts to the right of the corner. After the last bolt you used to have to free climb 15-20' to the top of the ear. The crack here is over 6", but halfway up this section look for a smaller crack inside that offers some protection.




P6: Chimney behind a large flake and head straight up (5.8) to a 2 bolt belay. Alternatively, you can follow 1 or 2 bolts above the belay (5.10 face).


P7: This is the same as the last pitch on the Dunn Route. Face climb past 2 bolts to the top.




Gear Notes:

2 60m ropes for rappelling Pale Fire



1 blue TCU

1 yellow TCU

1 black FCU

Black Diamond cams

2- 0.4

3- 0.5

3- 0.75

3- #1



set of nuts (useful on pitch 5)

14 draws/slings




Approach Notes:

Drive up Taylor Canyon Road

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Thanks for posting an inspiring TR! That's the best part of this site.

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