[TR] Jack Mountain - South Face 9/1/2013

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Jack Mountain - South Face

 

Date: 9/1/2013

 

Trip Report:

 

Several friends accompanied me to the Pasayten this weekend to climb Jack Mountain. We approached via the Crater Mountain trail to Jerry Lakes on Saturday, climbed Jack on Sunday and returned to camp a second night at Jerry Lakes before heading out Monday. Our approach and deproach avoided the glacier completely. Because we were a large party, we were a bit worried about managing the loose rock (yet alone climbing near other parties). As it turned out a party of 4 was also up there this weekend, but everything worked out with both parties summitting within an hour of oneother. The rock fall was not any worse than an other similar cascade route and we only had one scary moment where one of our climbers grabbed and let loose a porta-hold on the class 4 section. Fortunately, she did not lose her balance (or nerve). The rap anchor we found and used on the way down was a bit sketch - nobody got warm fuzzies fro it.

 

Some pics with captions follow below.

 

The team's first view of the objective from the end of the Crater Mountain trail:

 

Ascending scree and talus below trail's end:

 

View back shortly after leaving camp on summit day:

 

Sun appears on summit day:

 

Class 4 step:

 

Class 3 scrambling on the S Face:

 

 

Ascending the summit block:

 

Summit p0rn. Ross Lake, Redoubt, Mox Peaks, etc visible in the background:

 

KK on the summit. Nohokomeen glacier in the background:

 

View down the Crater Creek drainage below Jack's S Face:

 

Descending from the summit:

 

Rappeling the 4th class section:

 

Traversing back below the S Face:

 

Morning clouds provide for more enjoyment on the way out:

 

 

Passing the proglacial lake below Jerry Glacier on the way out:

 

View back to Jack mountain from trail's end. The proglacial lake below the Jerry Glacier is clearly visible:

 

Views South on the descent:

 

Panorama of N Cascades glory from the Crater Mountain trail:

 

A great trip to a remote mountain - worth doing exactly once!

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet, 30m rope for one rappel, ice axe and crampons.

[Gaucho Argentino]

Hei, KK! Good that you got out!!

 

That thing looks loose, Dude... I guess it adds to the flavor :-)

 

No team pics?!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Hei, KK! Good that you got out!!

 

That thing looks loose, Dude... I guess it adds to the flavor :-)

 

No team pics?!

 

Thanks Nelson. There was indeed some loose rock. I'm training for J-Berg next year. Wanna come with? :-)

 

[olyclimber]

Great pics!

[Josh Lewis]

Class 4 step:

 

Our 4th class sections seem to be different. I remember it looking more like this:

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

Our 4th class sections seem to be different. I remember it looking more like this:

 

Yes I read your TR - you must have been off route. The class 4 step was blocky and only 40 feet long. The rappel off of it was onto a mellow ramp which we downclimbed (class 3)

 

[Josh Lewis]

I think we did the right rappel and did the same class 3 section. Although you say it was a ramp? I remember the class 3 below as more of a gullyish setup. The class 4 section for us was definitely not blocky, but instead was a C4 traverse (the rock explodes like C4 too).

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I think we did the right rappel and did the same class 3 section. Although you say it was a ramp? I remember the class 3 below as more of a gullyish setup. The class 4 section for us was definitely not blocky, but instead was a C4 traverse (the rock explodes like C4 too).

 

We experienced nothing like what you described below. We had a 40' rap to mellow terrain.

 

"We got the rope ready and put it though the rappel ring, my biggest worry came true. It didn't reach. Looking down I dreaded the idea of having to get off the rope and down climb the last section. I knew that if there was anyone to go down first, it would have to be me. Looking around I said aloud "there's gotta be another way". We both knew there wasn't. This was the only way down. The rappel position was the worst I've ever seen. The people who put up the webbing couldn't have done much to fix this. With the slightest tug the webbing moved which worried me. We secured it on as best as we could. I said a prayer and got on with the rappel.

 

To start out I had to go over to the right where there was a minor ledge. With one hand I held on to the brake and the other I held the rock. I had to traverse more towards the webbing to get it in motion. But as I got closer it became increasingly more over hang like. My arms were exhausted from the climbing and were starting to give way. I could not figure out a safe position to get to."

 

[rob]

Pasayten! I want to ride my bike up there and climb something. What a great place

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Pasayten! I want to ride my bike up there and climb something. What a great place

 

Although I will not be making a return trip to Jack Mountain, I definitely will be returning to the Pasayten.

[mountainsandsound]

I think we did the right rappel and did the same class 3 section. Although you say it was a ramp? I remember the class 3 below as more of a gullyish setup. The class 4 section for us was definitely not blocky, but instead was a C4 traverse (the rock explodes like C4 too).

 

We experienced nothing like what you described below. We had a 40' rap to mellow terrain.

 

"We got the rope ready and put it though the rappel ring, my biggest worry came true. It didn't reach. Looking down I dreaded the idea of having to get off the rope and down climb the last section. I knew that if there was anyone to go down first, it would have to be me. Looking around I said aloud "there's gotta be another way". We both knew there wasn't. This was the only way down. The rappel position was the worst I've ever seen. The people who put up the webbing couldn't have done much to fix this. With the slightest tug the webbing moved which worried me. We secured it on as best as we could. I said a prayer and got on with the rappel.

 

To start out I had to go over to the right where there was a minor ledge. With one hand I held on to the brake and the other I held the rock. I had to traverse more towards the webbing to get it in motion. But as I got closer it became increasingly more over hang like. My arms were exhausted from the climbing and were starting to give way. I could not figure out a safe position to get to."

 

Perhaps the thought of how daring and exciting something will sound on a trip report taints the memory when it comes time to actually write it.

[Josh Lewis]

Oh it was sketchy for sure. I can safely say it was the worst rap I've ever done. Granted back then I didn't know you could lean on your PA (I know, silly eh) it still wasn't that great. The rope definitely didn't reach.