Protecting newer climbers in the gray area

[mountainsandsound]

Over the years, I've introduced people to mountaineering coming largely from two different backgrounds: backpacking and rock climbing. Each of them could gain valuable skills by focusing on the area they lack either cragging experience or scrambling in the mountains. Also, both groups tend to be light on snow travel experience.

 

The people I have introduced have been experienced backpackers and hikers rather than rock climbers. I have seen rock climbers pick up mountaineering though, and it seems to be a tougher learning curve for those folks. If you've been backpacking or hiking as an enthusiastic kid or teenager, chances are you were going off trail and scrambling up to high points as well without thinking much about it, so the familiarity with mountain terrain is there when you set out for more technical adventures.

 

I do agree about snow travel though. That seems to be the missing piece for everyone.

 

As far as group size, I have done an experienced to beginner ratio of 2:1 for a rope team of 3, and a 1:1 for a rope team of 4 on beginner glacier climbs.

[wesdyer]

I do agree about snow travel though. That seems to be the missing piece for everyone.

 

Anyone have a good suggestion where to practice steep snow climbing safely as well as self arrest practice?

 

[jakedouglas]

I do agree about snow travel though. That seems to be the missing piece for everyone.

 

Anyone have a good suggestion where to practice steep snow climbing safely as well as self arrest practice?

 

I don't know about steep climbing in particular, but the Paradise area is good for practicing snow skills in general, including self arrest. Slopes with safe runouts and close to the car.