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Dylan Colon

North Sister Conditions

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Has anyone been up on North Sister lately? I was wondering whether the snowfield that typically covers the traverse to the bowling alley has melted out or if it is still impassible, above or below, without an ice axe, crampons, pickets, etc. I've recently climbed Broken Top, Washington, and two different routes on South Sister, and am looking at North Sister, but would really prefer to wait till it's dry.

Edited by Dylan Colon

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I have not been up there this year but my guess is that it will be snowfree by August 20 +/- a week. BTW, it is possible to get a good view from the Old Mckenzie Highway near Dee Wright Observatory or a few miles west. With binocs and afternoon light you can get a very clear scope of the route.

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North Sister Terrible Traverse - it is impassable without ice tools (standard ice axe not sufficient), crampons & pickets. Hard ice/snow field beginning slope at 45 degrees and increasing to 70 degrees. Was there on Saturday 7/27. The ice field thwarted what would have been a certainly successful summit on an otherwise perfect day.

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thanks for report update. for clarification... ice tools needed... but bring pickets (generally not good pro for ice..) or is it very hard snow in the early AM, maybe soften a bit later?

 

 

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North Sister Terrible Traverse - it is impassable without ice tools (standard ice axe not sufficient), crampons & pickets. Hard ice/snow field beginning slope at 45 degrees and increasing to 70 degrees. Was there on Saturday 7/27. The ice field thwarted what would have been a certainly successful summit on an otherwise perfect day.

 

I sure don't really any 70 degree slopes on that traverse, except maybe at the very top of the Bowling Alley, and the rime would certainly be melted off by now.

 

This is the steepest part of the traverse when it has snow:

 

northsistraverse.jpg

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