North Cascades Trip Advise

[jacob09]

Hello all,

I am doing a trip to the cascades from July 29th through Aug 7th. I am meeting my friend from AK there and we were planning on attempting the West Ridge of Forbidden Pk and the Price Glacier route on Mt Shuksan. We both have lots of experience rock and ice climbing as well as climbing Mt Rainier and Denali.

What I am wondering is if anyone could provide any beta on those routes and if you would suggest attempting anything else while we are there. Thanks in advance,

 

Jacob

Edited July 18, 2013 by jacob09

[Pete_H]

Id try the Torment Forbidden Traverse instead of just Forbidden. Forbidden by itself is pretty short, but good.

[DPS]

There is a lot of information out there on both these routes. What kind of beta are you looking for?

 

What I would have to say about Price Glacier is be ready for steep ice climbing or be prepared to climb some crappy rock. Climb fast. Stash a bike at the Lake Ann trail head so you can descend Fisher Chimneys and ride back downhill to your car at the Nooksack River TH. There are excellent rock bivis on the slabs below the first lobe of the glacier and a small bivi at the saddle below Nooksack Tower before you drop down onto the Price. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=901411

 

Other route suggestions would be Park Glacier Headwall or Coleman Headwall on Mt Baker or North Face of Mt Buckner since you will be in both vicinities and will be kitted out for them. http://www.summitpost.org/park-glacier-headwall/536658

 

NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak is one of my favorite alpine rock climbs and of course North Ridge of Stuart is classic. Both routes are in a different part of the range. http://www.summitpost.org/northeast-buttress-of-colchuck-peak/689764

 

If you get tired of doing alpine climbs and dealing with Cascades approaches, Washington Pass is pretty awesome. Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, SW Buttress on South Early Winter Spire are both excellent, moderate routes up incredible granite spires. NW Corner or West Face of North Early Winter Spire and East Buttress Direct on South Early are excellent climbs that are a bit harder.

 

A bit longer hike gets you to Clean Break on Juno Tower, Paisano Pinnacle - Burgundy Spire link up, Rebel Yell on Chianti, all high quality alpine rock climbs.

Edited July 18, 2013 by DPS

[jacob09]

Thank you for the responses. A for beta, I was curious mostly about the descent on Shuksan and whether the ridge on Forbidden hold snow that time of year.

Also, would there be any routes that are doable this late on Rainier? I'm sure the glacier will be broken like crazy.

 

Jacob

 

[genepires]

most glacier routes on rainier should be fine. I would imagine that liberty ridge is way out, unless you are real badass and enjoy rocks hurtling at ya. DC and emmons all summer.

 

descend fisher chimneys for shuksan if you have done that route before. If not, maybe a run up the fisher chimneys is a good idea. it is a fine route and prolly much much better than the price glacier. If you are wanting to do the price because if its inclusion in the 50 classics, well then you may want to rethink that choice.

 

west ridge of forbidden will be snow free unless there is a freak snowstorm while you are on route. even then it will melt off as soon as the sun comes out.

 

as for other routes you may enjoy, tell us what you like. alpine rock, alpine ice, road side, long long approaches, ect, ect

 

[DPS]

 

descend fisher chimneys for shuksan if you have done that route before. If not, maybe a run up the fisher chimneys is a good idea. it is a fine route and prolly much much better than the price glacier. If you are wanting to do the price because if its inclusion in the 50 classics, well then you may want to rethink that choice.

 

I second the notion that the Fisher Chimneys is an excellent route, IMNSHO, one of the finest moderate alpine climbs in the range. I also really enjoyed the Price, although my stomach was in my throat most of the time.