[TR] East Willman Spire - Standard 6/28/2013

[Jim]

Trip: East Willman Spire - Standard

 

Date: 6/28/2013

 

Trip Report:

This one has been on the list for a while so Amy (youngster) and I left Seattle around 6:30 on Saturday for a day of bikes, snow, and rock. The first objective hazard was the dang Sauk crossing - haven't been up there for a while so this was a treat. Took of the bike shoes and did the log crossing in socks while carrying the bike.

 

Snow was present in Glacier Basin so that was a relief. Some typical scree scrambles were interspersed. Couloir went well with one tool and sans crampons. One party of two young bucks were just ahead of us - we paused at the pass waiting for a brief shower to pass. Luckily the clouds were veiling the sun on the way up. When we were ready for the rock it became sunny.

 

 

From the basin

 

Couloir filled with snow - yes!

 

Last pitch

 

The bike ride from the town site was a hoot - can't imagine plodding that after a long day.

 

Gear Notes:

Took a second tool but never used. Crampons and one tool for down climb.

 

Approach Notes:

Dry until Glacier Basin

[JasonG]

Excellent work, that is a cool climb to one of the more memorable summits around! And, you were smart to go early in the year when the gully is soft snow and bring the bikes for a fast exit.

[Jim]

Was a long but fun day. Minor worry about all the snow melt and big hunks calving off adjacent basin - some fridge sized-pieces were bouncing all the way to the coulir top-out. And we were hoping that the log crossing would not be submerged with all the melt water. But was ok.

[kevino]

hmmm...couloir looks skiable? are raps mandatory or is it an easy down climb?

[Jim]

Ya know, I was kinda thinking, shoot- I could tele-hop this thing. Down climbing face-in with crampons was necessary. Because of the side moat it would be a pain to try and set up a rap. I even brought a few pins for that option. I asked the other two folks on their way down about building a bollard or two, but they were dismissive. Probably 6 o' one, half-dozen of the other considering the time to build a rappel.

 

It would, however, be a long honkin' way to drag in skis. Now if I still had those Chouinard firn gliders....

[kevino]

Thanks for the response. I realize I didn't separate my questions appropriately. The raps vs down climb was in reference to the rock climb, not the couloir.

[Jim]

OK. I'm not that bold, especially with decent rap stations. The upper 5.4 - 5.6 (choice) is pretty exposed. Below that would be more reasonable to downclimb (IMO). There's couple 5.7 moves on the direct start from the ramp down.

 

First rap is short 15m or so, second maybe 45m. Could downclimb from there but also is easy rap, down ramp then hooking the rope over a corner and down a crack - can pull ropes from up hill - no rocks came down on our pull and easy to pull from the uphill so you are clear. Hope that helps.