boadman Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I'm looking for routes that meet the following conditions: 1. Leavenworth Wa 2. High quality gear routes 3. 5.11- to 5.12- 4. <30 minute approach 5. Not closed for imaginary falcons Any recommendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Pumpline and Air Roof on Careno; Pearly Gates has a couple lines with 5.11ish starts; The Nose / MF Overhang, etc on Castle; a few lines like ROTC on Midnight - but maybe that's closed for nesting. Sol probably has some better ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Just on Upper castle alone, in addition to what Pete said: 1) Mf Overhang Right, 2) MF Direct, 3) No Such Thing as a Free Lunge, 4) Dans Dreadful Direct, to the 5) Hangdog 6) Satanic Verses 7) Rainbow Connection... An onsight lead of any of these routes would be impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Didn't Sol and Jens have a list of 11 Ltown 5.11s that they climbed in a day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 L-Town 15 Some more to add to the list: Toothless Ruthless Revolving Doors of Justice Shriek of the Mulilated Squeak of the Humiliated Zweibles Snakeskin Cowboy Sheltered Kids Black Power BOO Arete Liquid Nitrogen Up for Grabs plenty more... but that should keep ya busy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Someone please go take a lap on Rainbow Connection! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted May 23, 2013 Author Share Posted May 23, 2013 Thanks for the recommendations, I'll take a look tonight and see what looks fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Someone please go take a lap on Rainbow Connection! I can barely make it past the first overhang on top rope! That thing is burly. I've had better luck on Das. That's a great lead Sol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 I went through my old guidebook, and a few of the recommendations appear to be sport climbs, which are normally fine, but not in line with my current objective. Also, a lot of them appear to be a little spicy in my old guide. Has that changed with modern micro-cams? I guess it might be time to pick up a new guide book. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 A couple of short (with short approaches too) 5.11 cracks are: Apesville on Lower Castle. Nice finger crack thru a roof. Good pro. I'd skip the second roof. Small World in the Icicle. This is really short too but the business is a couple of perfect ring jams. Great pro. (1.5") I haven't climbed Full Boar but ever since it was done I have repeatedly heard this was a great route. If you're a hiker I think it would be worth checking out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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