5.11 & 5.12- Gear Routes, Leavy, Short Approach?

[boadman]

I'm looking for routes that meet the following conditions:

 

1. Leavenworth Wa

2. High quality gear routes

3. 5.11- to 5.12-

4. <30 minute approach

5. Not closed for imaginary falcons

 

Any recommendations?

[Pete_H]

Pumpline and Air Roof on Careno; Pearly Gates has a couple lines with 5.11ish starts; The Nose / MF Overhang, etc on Castle; a few lines like ROTC on Midnight - but maybe that's closed for nesting. Sol probably has some better ideas.

[telemarker]

Just on Upper castle alone, in addition to what Pete said: 1) Mf Overhang Right, 2) MF Direct, 3) No Such Thing as a Free Lunge, 4) Dans Dreadful Direct, to the 5) Hangdog 6) Satanic Verses 7) Rainbow Connection...

 

An onsight lead of any of these routes would be impressive!

[Rad]

Didn't Sol and Jens have a list of 11 Ltown 5.11s that they climbed in a day?

[Sol]

L-Town 15

 

Some more to add to the list:

Toothless

Ruthless

Revolving Doors of Justice

Shriek of the Mulilated

Squeak of the Humiliated

Zweibles

Snakeskin Cowboy

Sheltered Kids

Black Power

BOO Arete

Liquid Nitrogen

Up for Grabs

 

plenty more... but that should keep ya busy!

[Sol]

Someone please go take a lap on Rainbow Connection!

[boadman]

Thanks for the recommendations, I'll take a look tonight and see what looks fun.

[telemarker]

Someone please go take a lap on Rainbow Connection!

 

I can barely make it past the first overhang on top rope! That thing is burly. I've had better luck on Das. That's a great lead Sol!

[boadman]

I went through my old guidebook, and a few of the recommendations appear to be sport climbs, which are normally fine, but not in line with my current objective. Also, a lot of them appear to be a little spicy in my old guide. Has that changed with modern micro-cams?

 

I guess it might be time to pick up a new guide book. :-)

[Peter_Puget]

A couple of short (with short approaches too) 5.11 cracks are:

 

Apesville on Lower Castle. Nice finger crack thru a roof. Good pro. I'd skip the second roof.

 

Small World in the Icicle. This is really short too but the business is a couple of perfect ring jams. Great pro. (1.5")

 

I haven't climbed Full Boar but ever since it was done I have repeatedly heard this was a great route. If you're a hiker I think it would be worth checking out.