bubble Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 I scared the piss out of myself the other day leading what I thought was going to be a walk in the park route (5.6 and all) but the one section of "scritchy slab" turned into a nightmare because of the really bad old rusty bolt with a really flappy hanger. Really dangerous situation for a 5.6 climb. After braving it out, I find out that other locals know that it is really bad "oh you did THAT sketchy route". Anyone know who to contact to get that route patched up? The anchor at the top also had a loose bolt. (The route is called B.S. -its on the left side of Domestic Dome) I will even pay for the hardware to get that bolt replaced! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam5 Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 You could ask the very generous Kurt Hicks here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 (edited) Or go to the local climbing shop and ask about how to contact Viktor Kramar who is kind of sort of the mayor of Leavenworth climbing. The author of recent guidebooks. When questions come up about fixed pro it is really important to talk to locals with perspective. Edited May 23, 2013 by matt_warfield Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakedouglas Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 There is another old thread about this route here http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/329383/Mangled_hangar_and_bad_bolt_Do  I tried the route earlier this spring and just downclimbed once I got up there and saw the condition of the bolt and the difficulty of the slab climbing.  It's worth noting that Connie's Crack above is accessible by the dirty narrow gully/trough on the climbers left of B.S., although there isn't much protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONK Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Ranchstyle would be a much better route to do in that area. Â or better yet, hike off the road to one of the many areas with better offerings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubble Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 (edited) I appreciate all of the feedback. Also, thanks for the link to the old thread.. geez those were posted back in like 2004 too! Dang. I will try and contact someone about it, cause it does need attention.. someone is going to get hurt. I normally like to get off of the road a bit, but me and a friend were just trying to get some last ones in. One would think especially easy routes closer to the road the more use/hence more attention. But that is my fault for assuming, I know to never assume. I did my hailmary's after I got a cam in above. Lesson learned, I just want to make sure the next person doesn't make the same mistake and get put in that predicament. Safety for all the homies. Edited May 24, 2013 by bubble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdDog Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Anyone know who to contact to get that route patched up? Â Patch it up yourself. If you are just replacing old hardware, go for it, that doesn't apply to adding bolts on existing routes however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 I'll try to get to it next week when I get back from Alaska. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bubble Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 That would be fantastic! Thank you for your expertise, and willingness to keep people safe out there. Im hoping someday I can acquire the knowledge to help rebolt. I also do my part and help out in the climbing community in other ways Much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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