[TR] Southeast Rock - multiple 10/21/2012

[wfinley]

Trip: Southeast Rock - multiple

 

Date: 10/21/2012

 

Trip Report:

Spent a week climbing on the east coast in late October. It had been close to two decades since I had last visited some of these places. Beautiful rock, beautiful trees and southern hospitality. If you're a climber and have never climbed the big granite domes of North Carolina you need to take a road trip. Below are some of my favorite photos. All 70 of them are here:

http://www.akmountain.com/index.cfm/2012/10/20/the-Southeast-Rocks

 

 

Seneca Rocks

Spent a weekend here dragging a brother up the easy routes. Fall colors weren't at the peak yet... but it was getting close. We climbed classics like Gunsight to Southpeak, Ecstasy Jr, Skyline and Old Ladies Route.

 

Gunsight to South Peak. 5.3!

 

 

Stone Mountain

Spent a day climbing runout slab at Stone. My wife had never been here so it was on the list for sure.

 

The Great Arch

 

Unknown climber on Mercury's Lead. This is a 5.9 with a full 100' runout on the 2nd pitch. I climbed it 20 years ago when I had balls. No way I would touch it now.

The climber in this photo splits his time between the Sierras & NC - so if you know him FWD him my site & I'll send him a bunch of pix.

 

Yardarm. A 5.8 with a bit of a runout. Many a climber has been suckered onto this route b/c the start is easy - only to discover that the 5.8 move is just before a bolt after an 80' runout.

 

Linville Gorge

I was last at Linville 17 years ago and it's pretty much the same. Few people, colors at their peak and full on brushy bouldery approaches. This is one of my favorite areas on the east coast.

 

The North Ridge. 250' 5.5. Very very fun!

 

The Daddy. A 5 pitch 5.6 that is spectacular.

 

The Mummy. The views on this route are crummy so don't bother.

 

Looking Glass

I was last at Looking Glass about 20 years ago. Mid-week you can have the place to yourself. Colors were a few days past peak but temps were in the 70s so no complaints.

 

 

Crack climbing on the south face. We climbed Second Coming and Gemini Cracks. Gemini Cracks is excellent!

 

The famous eyebrows.

 

Looking up at the Nose. 400' 5.8.

 

Top of the 3rd pitch on the Nose.

 

Unknown climbers on Sundial.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Tricams for Looking Glass. Balls for Stone. Carharts for Linville bushwhacking.

 

Approach Notes:

Alaska Airlines

[matt_warfield]

i've heard about the eyebrows. Thanks for the TR and I'll try to get there sometime.

Edited December 11, 2012 by matt_warfield

[Taluscat]

Love these reports on stars and bars(S.E.)climbing adventures.The fall colors are really nice, reminds me of crisp cool fall mornings approaching the glass myself.all the routes you climbed bring back fond memories. thanks for sharing. EYEBROWS=tricams

[matt_warfield]

EYEBROWS=tricams

 

But upside down and tricky I have read.

[mountainmatt]

First off, cool trip! You have to love the fall colors down there

 

As for Looking Glass, I climbed there about 10 years ago and the thing that I remember about the eyebrows is that you always had to place gear when you could. While you might get several good pieces every 5-10 feet, if you passed one up, there might not be another one for 20+ feet. That being said, the climbing was super fun and unique.

[Val Zephyr]

Excellent TR and photos. Thanks! I'm looking forward to climbing at Seneca and more next time I'm on the east coast.

[mountainsloth]

wicked! i have friends moving to NC next year. This is proper motivation to go visit.

[fgw]

Great stuff!! Inspires me to go back to NC for some sweet granite multipitch. Man, those fall colors out there...

[ivan]

almost makes me miss living back in the old dominion. almost. 'specially when it ain't stopped raining in fucking weeeeeeeks!