Another boot quandary

[B Deleted_Beck]

Howdy

 

Long story short... In trying to upgrade my boot arsenal this year, I ended up with three pairs of technical boots- Primes, Extremes, and Evo Ss.

 

I feel like one of the new boots I have could perform the function of all three... none of these boots strikes me as particularly warm (not warm enough for 3 days on Rainier in the dead of winter, anyway), and while the Extrems and Primes are both great ice boots in their own right, I just don't think I'm experienced enough to really notice a difference between the two- unless one is warmer than the other?

 

So basically I think I need to keep the most versatile ice/mixed boot, sell the other two and buy a pair of something really warm... Spantiks maybe? Hopefully something less expensive, but I just don't see myself lugging plastics again.

 

Thoughts? What's going to cover the bases best? Really hoping to do some hard mixed lines this winter, as well as try to get on some big ice on Rainier. There's also a strong possibility of doing some peaks in Alberta early this spring..

 

Thanks

 

-Ben

Edited December 8, 2012 by Ben B.

[B Deleted_Beck]

I should probably also mention that I'm trying to learn to ski in climbing boots... not that any of the above are going to be anything even remotely close to fun to ski in... but I guess it might make a differnece.

[Dave7]

IMO, I would keep the Evo's.

 

Spantiks are definitely super warm, I found a brand new pair on sale for $400 (still expensive, but worth it if you are looking for warmth and technical climbing. Sounds like these would be your go to winter boot.

 

Have you thought about something like a Batura or Phantom Guide? Maybe just the balance you are looking for? I was just reading Dane's blog (coldthistle.blogspot.com) today about these two boots actually. Whittaker mountaineering has the Phantom Guide's on sale (http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/brands/scarpa/phantom-guide), plus an extra 20% off with promo code CHILLOUT. Brings them to about $380.

 

Not trying to sell you on anything, just trying to give you my opinion and the offers out there. I have Spantiks and Evo's and love them both. Cheers!

 

 

[ADKMan]

Like any boot question, ultimately fit is key. This being said I have Phantom Guides and find them to be the perfect all around winter boot for everything short of multiday (more than 2-3) and sustained very cold (below 0) conditions. As Dave7 indicated the deal at Whittaker Mountaineering is killer- I've never seen them priced that low.

[B Deleted_Beck]

I seem to be pretty versatile with the boot fit.. I've got all LS boots this year, and those that I've put miles on are comfortable. Before the big upgrade, I had around 100,000' of vertical gain on two pairs of Scarpa boots, also with comfort.

[CaleHoopes]

Hey, save some money and buy the Baruntse's. I've climbed in Ouray, Rainier on DC & Kautz, and the West Buttress on Denali. I've also done some Snoqualmie Pass Ice Climbing, hiking and snowshoeing in them. They are awesome and cheaper than the Spantiks and I've heard, almost as warm (warm enough for Denali). Anyhow...

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-sportiva-baruntse.html

 

Fit by a boot fitter (Sturtevant's in Bellevue, WA)

 

Still my go to boot...

[B Deleted_Beck]

The Baruntse is a full lb heavier than the Phantom guides.. Are they significantly warmer? Will the Phantoms be significantly more comfortable or climb better?

 

Me feet seem to be a little on the cold side.. but not terribly. How cold do the Canadian Rockies get in early spring? I haven't climbed outside of the PNW as of yet

[ADKMan]

Being a double boot the Baruntse will be warmer, not climb as well and be a bit "clunkier" as compared to the Phantom Guides. I've had warm feet in the Guides down to about -5 degrees but if your feet run cold you may not be able to go that low. Bottom line is there is probably no perfect boot for all conditions. I am sure both boots would be "perfect" in some conditions and not so much in others.

[Luzak00]

Phantom Guide is basically equivalent to the Sportiva Batura. A super warm, technical single boot in a lightweight package. Unfortunately, they do take awhile to dry - sometimes you need the double boots. The Phantom 6000 is slightly warmer, slightly bulkier, and the double boot version.

 

For use skiing, the Spantik can't be beat.

[B Deleted_Beck]

Starting to think about keeping the Extreme, buying the Guide, and thinking about a Baruntse or Spantik if these BC climbs come to fruition..

 

I figure the Extremes will still be warm enough for all of my day assaults on Hood, probably most or all of the lower elevation stuff I hope to tick this year, and the Guides should cover my bases on the big volcanoes.

 

Sound?

[RafalA]

I use the Phantom Guide all year round around the Rockies - high alpine in summer, ice and mixed all winter. They're a great boot: warm, comfortable, can hike all day long and climb exceedingly well. I don't know how cold I've had them, but it gets to -30 around here and haven't had any issues.

 

For summer alpine with mostly rock I use the Rebel Carbon, but these are nowhere near warm enough for winter use. I've had them to -7 or so and standing around my feet did get cold. The climb mixed really well, though, but are not so great on ice where you have to kick for placements.

 

I haven't used them climbing yet, but just got a pair of Phantom 6000s. Almost the same fit as the Guide, but significantly warmer. A touch bulkier, but the sole is the same size as my Guides, so not expecting too much difference in climbing performance.

 

Also had the Mont Blanc and Freney GTX. Both much, much stiffer than the Guides and a very different fit. They're comparable in warmth, though not as warm as the Guides. The Mont Blanc feels like a rank - solid, as if you could kick them into anything. The Freney (now Jorasses) are pretty much ice-specific. Narrow, tight fit but a very solid frontpointing platform.

[montypiton]

you've got three pairs of sportivas and you're gonna buy yet another pair of boots? let's think again...

 

you think you want to ski in them - of the three you own, the evos will ski best, because they have the beefiest upper. if you're serious about skiing in them, keep the evos and sell the primes and extremes.

 

if precise climbing footwork is more important than skiing, sell the evos, and choose between the extremes and the primes. the only real difference is the amount of rocker to the sole. the extreme has a flatter sole, so the prime will walk more comfortably. both climb well.

 

I like the primes, mostly because after having both ankles rebuilt three years ago, I no longer have the ankle flexibility to effectively engage my front points with a really flat sole (can't drop my heels enough). I've found them warm enough for most North American climbing (Banff/Lake Louise in February, Montana, Wyoming)

 

for winter trips longer than two or three days, I still prefer my old plastic doubles - guaranteed not to wet out and freeze up... and plastics do ski reasonably well...