mvs Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 Was really nice. We climbed Silent Running. When the sun was on us, it felt like a warm spring day. I fell twice at the 10b friction on pitch 7, finally grabbing a draw and aiding past it. Does sticky rubber work better in cold or heat? Intuitively I think heat... We had the place to ourselves, it was pretty special... Thanks to Mattp and others for bolts, beta, and pitches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 sticky rubber grips better in cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 2, 2002 Share Posted December 2, 2002 that is a fine route. It just keeps getting better as you go. Good work aid climbing. I bet I would have aided that nast slab too. Plenty of cool routes out there. I had the luck to climb it with DavidW and pms a while back and felt like the ultimate gumby slab climber Rumor is out that DavidW drilled some of those bolts on lead way back in the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 Rubber is better in the cold. Fingertips....well that's another story Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 right on. that route is cool, although when i did it a couple years ago, i didn't know that it went on past the top of the 5th pitch, so we rapped off, thinking we were done. how many more pitches are there and what are they like, ie gear, difficulty, etc? it would be fun to do the rest of the route some day, especially now that the 'meathooks' are gone off the crux pitch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted December 3, 2002 Author Share Posted December 3, 2002 Take a look at Mattp's topo for the route: here. Two more good pitches after the 5th. The 7th was pretty wild, especially for the variety it packs in. You amble up and pass two overlaps, protecting the 2nd with a cam. There is a great hand jam there. Then easy slab to an overlap. I girth-hitched a schrub here, then moved left to finger jams to pass the overlap. Then it gets hard. Clip a bolt and move up and left to another bolt on the toughest slab climbing on the route. Move past the second bolt to a cam placement, and 15 feet of easy liebacking to the anchor. Dang, I sure do remember it well... 6 bolts, 3-4 cams. Pitch 3 was really great too. Can't wait till spring to go back and climb the Kone and other routes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted December 3, 2002 Share Posted December 3, 2002 that sounds like a good finish! cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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