Early Morning Spire-SW Face & Upper South Ridge

[Matt_Alford]

Trip: Early Morning Spire - SW Face and Upper South Ridge

 

Date: 8/23/2012

 

Trip Report:

I have been wanting to tick this one off for a long time. Outstanding mountain route on good rock in an exceptional setting. Great camp on the South side of the Triad-Eldorado Col and a cold bivy in in Marble Creek Basin.

 

Sitting high over the Cascade River contemplating adventures of years gone by with so many friends in the surrounding mountains brings a deep sense of contentment and satisfaction to my soul. Something special about climbing in the Cascades.

 

 

Tease of Marble Creek from Sibley Ridge

 

Terrible camp site below the Triad-Eldorado col

 

Spectacular pitch two, like a low angled Outer Space. Unfortunately this is the last interesting photo of the route as we were soon to be shrouded in clouds for the next 20 hours.

 

Short bus summit shot

 

The end of long cold night in the Marble Creek Basin. I don't recommend trying to climb this route from the Triad-Eldorado Col. It is a long way from the base of the route and complicated figuring out your way through Marble Creek in the fog/dark.

 

Clouds lifting out of the Cascade River Valley

 

Decent sunset-Boston and Sahale...

 

Johannesberg and Formidable...

 

Dome...

 

Glacier

 

Snowking to the sun.

 

One of the best views in the Cascades.

 

Front Door Adventures

 

Gear Notes:

Standard Alpine Rack to 3"

 

Approach Notes:

Sibley Creek Pass to Triad-Eldorado Col. (1 pitch of mid-fifth class climbing)

Edited September 5, 2012 by Matt_Alford

[Lowell_Skoog]

Early Winter -> Early Morning

 

Thanks for the TR.

 

[Matt_Alford]

Oops! Thank Lowell! Will edit.

 

Cheers,

 

Matt

Edited September 3, 2012 by Matt_Alford

[curtveld]

Very nice shots, and some useful beta!

 

I don't recommend trying to climb this route from the Triad-Eldorado Col.

Looks like a long hike across, especially when going in late summer for dry conditions, yet the daylight is getting shorter...

[JasonG]

Yep, I think the way to do this route is from the Dorado Needle/Eldo col (pretty reasonable 2.5 day RT). While the Triad approach looks good on paper, I've found it to be longer, though very beautiful.

 

That said, you did it! I really enjoyed the route and it sounds like you guys did as well.

 

Thanks for showing us the way Lowell!

[Matt_Alford]

Agreed. We chose the Sibley approach simply because neither of us had been in that way before. The Triad-Eldo col involves a pitch of mid fifth class climbing as well.

 

We got completely socked in while climbing and ended up trying to navigate the Marble Creek drainage in the dark/fog. No beuno! Eventually resigned ourselves to a night of cuddling atop our packs!