Soloing with a Gri

[keenwesh]

I'm looking to perfect my aid soloing this year in preparation for some goals next spring, I've self belayed a few times before but always with a clove, figured I should ask for some advice before I just go for it.

 

And also, I know this has been discussed ad nauseam before, directing me to another topic is very welcome.

 

So to attach the gri to yourself I know a steel binier is ideal, but would one of the lighter weight new belaying biniers work as well? Most of the danger comes from cross loading, they seem to eliminate this pretty well, and are about a third the weight of a steel behemoth.

 

Clip the gri into the belay loop? Seems like more play in the system would be good, to avoid crossloading scenarios.

 

tips on making a catch softer? leave some slack clipped into the haulbags? a screamer off the anchor? don't worry about it? what do ya'll use?

[keenwesh]

anyone?

 

bueller.... bueller.... bueller.....

[ColinB]

Maybe you've already seen this, but Andy Kirkpatrick has some choice words about using a GriGri and recommends a steel biner.

 

http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/rope_soloing_101_part_1

[keenwesh]

have not seen that, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

[ivan]

i solo w/ a gri, but don't know what to add - i don't use a steel biner and have taken several considerable falls w/o incident - i clip a big fat biner through my leg and waist loop as i prefer my fifi to be on my belay loop and indepedent - the gri is a fairly shitty partner as it constantly tries to yank me back into the abysss, but it doesn't smoke my cigarettes of drink my beer, so ain't so bad compared to some

[keenwesh]

Ivan, we never got out this summer, bummer dude! Maybe if I can tear myself away from the ice one of these breaks and drive back west a couple routes could be had, think about a duo of gigantors, the rivet ladders could be epic!

 

I think I'll try a binier like this belay binier

 

 

if it somehow crossloads and catastrophically fails I'll be caught by my back up ~20 feet lower. After an episode like that I'd probably bail though.

 

BTW, if anyone has some tomahawks or camhooks they're willing to part with PM me. I'd buy them full retail, but I'd rather save a couple bucks from the good folks on here.

[ketch]

Even with the big biner there is still possible issues with loading. I solo most of the time with a gri. The biggest issue is that it can get out of alignment. In a fall either the biner is out of place and you risk breaking it or the gri is out of alignment and you risk damage to the clip point of the device.

 

I have found that the "death mod" gri works very well and solves these issues. I have even taken a few whippers where I was out of place or inverted. A web search for the mod works or let me know and I can send you some pics or instructions.

 

[ivan]

please to explain this very catchy name sounding modification please

[JosephH]

For free, lead rope-soloing this is what I used to do (tab-mod grigri):

 

 

This is what I now do:

 

 

For aid soloing I've always just used an unmodified grigri on the same rapide mallion (10mm, INOX SS, CE-stamped, rated at 25kN)

[Wallstein]

check out this check out this thread on supertaco. shows a modified gri-gri.

 

I haven't heard this trick mentioned which I think is pretty key if you are doing any free climbing. I attach a Wild Country ropeman to my gear loop that hold the break strand. this allows me to keep the right amount of slack in the loop to make clipping easy. This isn't really a big deal when aid climbing but for free climbing its really important. I've been able to lead hard 5.11 with this rig and it works pretty well.

 

[JosephH]

check out this check out this thread on supertaco. shows a modified gri-gri.

 

I haven't heard this trick mentioned which I think is pretty key if you are doing any free climbing. I attach a Wild Country ropeman to my gear loop that hold the break strand. this allows me to keep the right amount of slack in the loop to make clipping easy. This isn't really a big deal when aid climbing but for free climbing its really important. I've been able to lead hard 5.11 with this rig and it works pretty well.

 

 

That looks like a great idea paired with a grigri for free rope-soloing with the rope hanging down.

 

For myself after ten years or so of free, rope-soloing on a grigri I ditched it after the Eddy came out - so much cleaner, simpler, and it relocks if you pull the handle all the way back.

 

I also carry the rope and don't care for having it hang down regardless of device and how it's rigged, but rope-soloing is definitely a 'to each his own' sort of deal and you have to sort out what works for you among all the options.

 

RC.com free roped soloing article

 

Various SuperTopo.com aid soloing threads

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Asupertopo.com+%20aid+solo

 

But pay attention to any of Mark Hudon's tip, technique, or 'system' threads of the past year or two

 

http://www.supertopo.com/forumsearch.php?s=s&o=&v=0&cur=420&ftr1=%22aid%22&ftr2=&ftr3=&ftr4=Mark+Hudon#list

 

[ketch]

sorry all, been off for a bit after the post. I will get some pics up and explain. I also like Wallstein's deal. Carrying your rope to keep proper tension helps a lot and this a good way to do it.

 

Pics and explain up in a day or so.