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GoBorGoH

Cascade Pass Traverse

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Aloha! Looking for some beta on this traverse if it exists... West traverse extent would access via Cascade River Road, Fork Left onto Cascade Pass Trail road till crossing Roush Creek. i believe one could use the trail for the Eldorado peak approach as the west extent starting point. East extent would be the south west shoulder of Boston Peak and descend down into Soldier Boy Creek and hit the terminus of the Cascade Pass Trail road to complete a loop.

 

Planning a Labor Day attempt.

 

Anyone out there heard of this traverse?

 

Thanks much!

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I think if you are asking whether it's possible to approach Eldorado, then hang a right and traverse under Torment and through Boston basin to Sahale arm, and come back down the arm, or some variation that goes through Boston Basin, the answer is yes.

 

This area is extremely well frequented and there is no travel difficulty once above treeline, plus there is ample fresh water. The trip might take 2 days if yountake your time but can be done in a day.

 

If you are asking whether you can do the loop around the back side of Torment, over the N side of Forbidden, this is a much more serious trip that requires much more time this time of year. Its commonly called the Forbidden Traverse if done as the classic ski tour starting on Sahale arm and ending on the Eldo plateau, via sharkfin col.

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Thanks for the "Yes" in your first response. We definitely plan on staying south of Torment Pk. Many of the pic viewed on google earth make the terrain out to be super gnarly and maybe even some technical sections.. thanks for clearing up the impression we gained from the google pics. Our plan is a chill two day push. From the sounds of it we will most likely run into others doing a similar trek.

 

Cheers!

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Has anyone responding here actually done this route? The last time I traversed from Torment Basin to Boston Basin (June 2003) we did a rappel on the Boston Basin side of the spur that extends SW from Mt Torment. This was at about 6600ft elevation. Maybe the crossing gets easier later in the season, but I don't think it's ever just a walk-off. Anybody know different?

 

The alternative crossing is much higher, at the 7400ft notch in the south ridge of Torment. That's a relatively easy crossing when the notch is snow filled, but it can get trickier later in the season.

 

Bottom line: This section of the traverse may not be a simple as you're expecting.

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I've gone Sahale Arm to the SW aspect of Torment without issue. There is only one more long ridge running down that divides Boston Basin from Roush Cr, which is the long ridge coming down climbers right as one approaches Eldo via Roush Cr. Seems totally doable.

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NOLS does this traverse often. perhaps you should get in touch with them? From what I've seen watching them do it, you cross near the saddle on the SW ridge of Torment around the Pt. 6750 saddle.

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NOLS does this traverse often. perhaps you should get in touch with them? From what I've seen watching them do it, you cross near the saddle on the SW ridge of Torment around the Pt. 6750 saddle.

 

It may have been a NOLS group that let my brother and me use their rappel anchor to cross the long ridge that I think Alex is talking about. Saved us the trouble of setting our own anchor.

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Has anyone responding here actually done this route? The last time I traversed from Torment Basin to Boston Basin (June 2003) we did a rappel on the Boston Basin side of the spur that extends SW from Mt Torment. This was at about 6600ft elevation. Maybe the crossing gets easier later in the season, but I don't think it's ever just a walk-off. Anybody know different?

......

Bottom line: This section of the traverse may not be a simple as you're expecting.

 

Jeffh and I just did the traverse to Boston Basin from Eldorado in mid-July and Lowell is correct that this one section shouldn't be treated as trivial. It was raining when we reached it and since the rock was wet we did one rap off of an existing anchor at the top and then a short bit of easy 3rd class to snow below. I think the entire thing would have been downclimbable at low class 4 at most. Maybe easier if you took the time to look around (we didn't). But it should be considered at least somewhat technical and is definitely the crux of the entire traverse. The rest is a very pleasant alpine stroll.

 

 

Crossing_1.JPG

This photo is looking across the top of the slope after we fortunately found a way around the end of the snow at the top. Much earlier in the season I think we would have needed to rap off of a snow anchor. That won't be a problem by now.

 

Crossing_2.JPG

This photo is looking back at that col from Boston Basin.

 

 

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We are going to give it a shot this weekend and this thread was really the only information I could find. Plan is to climb Eldorado and then head over to Sahale before heading back down to the road. If anyone else has helpful information it would be greatly appreciated. Right now the only "crux" would be crossing the SW ridge of Torment and doing it at 6600'.

 

Thanks,

 

Jason

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