denalidave Posted August 5, 2012 Posted August 5, 2012 I'm just wondering if I should bring two, #4 Camalots for the Stanley Berger Chockstone route on the South face of Prusik? Should I bring an extra 3 as well? I was thinking one #3 and one #4 supplemented with a few hexes would be plenty but I also read in one TR that "they used the #4 a lot". Thanks! Dave Quote
Val Zephyr Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 I thought that one #4 and one #5 was nice. I bet that you could get by with one or two #4, if you don't mind some short run-outs on the wider cracks. Save your #4 for the exit on the top of the crux pitch. I wished I had. I brought two #3, but can't think of anywhere that I had to have both of them, there are lots of options for pro. That final pitch is long though, so you'll want a few extra of something just to be able to keep plugging in gear. Hope that helps. Have a good climb! Quote
denalidave Posted August 6, 2012 Author Posted August 6, 2012 I thought that one #4 and one #5 was nice. I bet that you could get by with one or two #4, if you don't mind some short run-outs on the wider cracks. Save your #4 for the exit on the top of the crux pitch. I wished I had. I brought two #3, but can't think of anywhere that I had to have both of them, there are lots of options for pro. That final pitch is long though, so you'll want a few extra of something just to be able to keep plugging in gear. Hope that helps. Have a good climb! Thanks, that seems to be the consensus. I'm taking a single rack to #4 + a few larger hexes. Quote
Crillz Posted August 6, 2012 Posted August 6, 2012 Not sure how hard you're climbing, but... We took doubles from fingers to #3, and a #4. I remember skating the #4 a bunch. I don't recall much need for smaller gear. Next time, I'd probably opt for the same rack (maybe minus a #3), as it seemed like we got beat down by the cold, so stirring the mojo to send was easier knowing runnouts weren't an issues. And one 60m is good enough. Quote
keenwesh Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 doubles to gold C4, a single 3 and 4. I was never run out and had enough gear to aid the top of that chimney (holy shit it sucks). two 3's and two 4's isn't worth the extra weight. good route, have fun! Quote
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